My thanks to John Logan, Ron Fraser, Tony "Somebody," Peter Stanisavljevich
and others who responded to my question regarding replacement of the leather
seal on Girling brake servos.
I thought I'd summarize some things in case others are interested in
rebuilding their servos. If any of you guys have additional information to
add, please reply to this posting so all can benefit.
The "premier" instructions on how to rebuild a servo were written by Tom
Ehrhart (Tiger Tom) quite a few years ago. I followed his instructions when I
rebuilt my Mark II servo many years ago (the 7" unit) and it has worked
perfectly ever since. The link:
http://teae.org/servo-unit-rebuild-instructions/
Additional information can be found in the article by Phil Lindsay at this
link:
http://teae.org/servo-survival/
The basic seal kits for rebuilds are available from Sunbeam Specialties (and
others, but Rick has always been my "supplier of choice"):
http://www.rootes.com/catalogindex.html
You can find kits on eBay, too... and probably many other sources. I have
only used a Girling brand kit myself, so I am not sure about the quality of
other brands. Anyone have experience?
Usually, the leather seal is still serviceable (even after nearly 50 years).
But... if it isn't or you want a fresh start, the original leather seals can
be replaced by an updated rubber seal from this source (thanks Peter):
http://www.jlspares.com/sealkits1.htm
I received the following information from Phil at J&L Spares regarding their
replacement seals:
Hello Bill, thanks for your inquiry. Yes we do have a
replacement seal. These
are made of polyurethane and we use them all the time
when rebuilding servos
as we were having problems
with the original leather ones. The cost is #25.00
each plus postage and v.a.t. ( if applicable). Thanks Phil
I asked him about how they are installed and this was his reply:
Hello Bill, with our replacement seal you would need to
split the vacuum
piston, the outer ring will come off. We put them in a small
vice (not the
chrome pushrod) the round piston and with a small chisel working
your way
round the piston you can split them. The new seal fits straight on
with NO
rubber ring then we press them back together. If you are very careful
you
should have no problems. Ideally press the two parts back together in a
press
if you have access to one. Thanks Phil.
If the rebuild seems like something you don't want to do yourself, others have
mentioned these sources:
Bill Martin at : http://www.rootesgroupdepot.com/service.shtml
Randy Willett:: email at willett581@msn.com (may be outdated?)
Regards,
Bill Waite
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