I did this about 15 years ago with a cover from Rick. I did cut the foam
out under the windshield. I mounted it first to compress the foam to find
where to cut. I had to cut further in than my compression markings because
the rubber still interferred.
Also, I recall it was tricking at the two outer edges where the edge of the
metal lip went up and had to go through the cover. I cut it out there. I
wonder though if someone has a more elegant solution.
I did what Rick said to do in those days: put the contact cement on both
sides, lay wax paper in between, lay it down and pull out the wax paper. I
will say though that it was NOT easy. The wax paper stuck just from the
pressure and friction. It then ripped. This caused a lot of frustration.
I note that in an older post, someone mentioned dowels. That seems like it
would help. I don't recall. But at this point I would suggest not putting
contact cement on the verticle face of the dash board - and only glue the
top face. Or, at least put a non-instantaneous stick glue at the front.
But, I don't think I did that. I think the problem was that perhaps parts
of the forward edge might have stuck before I could get the rear edge down
where it was supposed to be. Maybe I'd suggest just glueing towards that
last few inches of the forward edge and let the rear edge simply be held
down by the wrap of the material down and around the rear edge (near the
dash) where the flat board held it up - with the riviets that Rande
mentions.
Also, someone mentioned that some people put tonneau snaps in the holes for
the screws on the defroster vents. I do believe that is in fact how it
came from the factory in some years. Those might have been pre-Tiger,
Alpine only years. But there were definitely cars that way that were not
just accidents by the owners.
Jay
On Fri, Nov 15, 2013 at 12:12 PM, snakebit289 <snakebit289@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Because Rick McLeod at Sunbeam Specialties sells the new pads,
> what does he suggest as a general rule to use for the new pad? Also, for
> the person who's installing the new pad, pay attention to the two outer
> aluminum/vinyl-trimmed pieces and long center cardboard piece that
> affixes the lower edge of the pad just above the wood instrument panel.
> They were originally attached with rivets, and you may want to
> pre-locate the rivet holes for the new pad in order to use the same
> holes with your new rivets.
>
> Rande Bellman
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