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Re: [Tigers] Running hot... new 5.0

To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Running hot... new 5.0
From: Theo Smit via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 17:51:01 -0600 (MDT)
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
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Hi all, 

Thanks again for all the good suggestions. 
The lower rad hose coil is a must. The previous one had become pretty sketchy 
even prior to the engine replacement so I had already replaced the coil with 
some 1/16" stainless welding rod wound in a coil. Next time around I'll source 
a whole new hose and make sure it includes the coil (some hoses don't...) 
As I noted yesterday I replaced the 180 with a 160 thermostat and checked both 
of them in a pan... dunno about absolute temps (as noted by Stu, IR 
thermometers are sensitive to what material they're reading and I haven't gone 
and checked the IR emissivity of water) but the 180 was definitely opening way 
later. 
Darrell's note about air pockets led me to make and put an air bleed fitting in 
the water heater inlet hose. And using that, I discovered that my heater valve 
actually doesn't flow anything when it's only half open... the heater was still 
dry. 


So with all this new technology it now steadies out at 180 on the gauge even 
after exploring the power band a little more extensively (should have put the 
IR thermometer on it but that slipped my mind). Very promising stuff! 


Cheers and hopefully I'll see some of you next weekend, 
Theo 



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<html><head><style type=3D'text/css'>p { margin: 0; }</style></head><body><=
div style=3D'font-family: arial,helvetica,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; colo=
r: #000000'>Hi all,<div><br>Thanks again for all the good suggestions.&nbsp=
;</div><div>The lower rad hose coil is a must. The previous one had become =
pretty sketchy even prior to the engine replacement so I had already replac=
ed the coil with some 1/16" stainless welding rod wound in a coil. Next tim=
e around I'll source a whole new hose and make sure it includes the coil (s=
ome hoses don't...)</div><div>As I noted yesterday I replaced the 180 with =
a 160 thermostat and checked both of them in a pan... dunno about absolute =
temps (as noted by Stu, IR thermometers are sensitive to what material they=
're reading and I haven't gone and checked the IR emissivity of water) but =
the 180 was definitely opening way later.</div><div>Darrell's note about ai=
r pockets led me to make and put an air bleed fitting in the water heater i=
nlet hose. And using that, I discovered that my heater valve actually doesn=
't flow anything when it's only half open... the heater was still dry.</div=
><div><br></div><div>So with all this new technology it now steadies out at=
 180 on the gauge even after exploring the power band a little more extensi=
vely (should have put the IR thermometer on it but that slipped my mind). V=
ery promising stuff!</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers and hopefully I'll see=
 some of you next weekend,</div><div>Theo</div><div><div style=3D"color:#00=
0;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none;font-family:Hel=
vetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;"><br></div></div></div></body></htm=
l>
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