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Re: [Tigers] Tachometer and Petronix

To: "'Randall Antosiak'" <randya@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Tachometer and Petronix
From: Ron Fraser via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.net>
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 00:28:54 -0400
Cc: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@Autox.Team.Net
References: <659872886.2305469.1563322683462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <659872886.2305469.1563322683462@mail.yahoo.com>
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Randall

                It depends on why your Tach is dead.

When my Tach was working poorly I took it apart to see if there was =
anything obvious causing the problem.

I found that the rosin on all the solder points was flacking off and =
stopping the working parts.

I brushed off all the rosin and very gently blew out all the rosin =
=E2=80=93 use very low air pressure here like 1 or 2 psi.

=20

Tom Hall has an add on board that might help you.   I=E2=80=99m not sure =
if can restore a totally dead Tach.

=20

I have Pertronics ignition and the stock Tach.   Seems to me originally =
this setup caused the Tach to jump around some.

I believe Pertronics has a filter which stops this.   At the time I was =
discussing this with Tiger Tom in PA.    He investigated this and made =
his own filter which I installed and the Tach worked correctly.

=20

Ron Fraser

=20

=20

From: Tigers <tigers-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Randall =
Antosiak via Tigers
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2019 8:18 PM
To: Tiger List <tigers@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Tigers] Tachometer and Petronix

=20

My tach is dead and the repair shop (Palo Alto Speedo) has given me two =
options for repair: 1)

 stock electronics ($225), or 2) Petronix compatible electronics ($335) =
which requires an additional wire from the coil to the tach. =20

=20

I seem to recall that hearing that a stock electronics tach will work =
with an induction wire which has the loop removed (this is the white =
wire from the ballast resistor) .  Obviously this is the preferable =
option - does anyone have experience with this? =20

=20

Thanks!


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link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Randall<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=
=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0 It depends on why your Tach is =
dead.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>When my Tach was working poorly =
I took it apart to see if there was anything obvious causing the =
problem.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I found that the rosin on =
all the solder points was flacking off and stopping the working =
parts.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I brushed off all the rosin =
and very gently blew out all the rosin =E2=80=93 use very low air =
pressure here like 1 or 2 psi.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Tom Hall has =
an add on board that might help you.=C2=A0=C2=A0 I=E2=80=99m not sure if =
can restore a totally dead Tach.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I have =
Pertronics ignition and the stock Tach. =C2=A0=C2=A0Seems to me =
originally this setup caused the Tach to jump around =
some.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I believe Pertronics has a =
filter which stops this.=C2=A0=C2=A0 At the time I was discussing this =
with Tiger Tom in PA.=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0He investigated this and made =
his own filter which I installed and the Tach worked =
correctly.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Ron Fraser<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Tigers =
&lt;tigers-bounces@autox.team.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Randall =
Antosiak via Tigers<br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 16, 2019 8:18 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> Tiger List =
&lt;tigers@autox.team.net&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> [Tigers] Tachometer and =
Petronix<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>My tach is =
dead and the repair shop (Palo Alto Speedo) has given me two options for =
repair: 1)<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>&nbsp;stock=
 electronics ($225), or 2) Petronix compatible electronics ($335) which =
requires an additional wire from the coil to the =
tach.&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;=
</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>I seem to =
recall that hearing that a stock electronics tach will work with an =
induction wire which has the loop removed&nbsp;<span =
style=3D'color:black'>(this is the white wire from the ballast =
resistor)&nbsp;</span>.&nbsp; Obviously this is the preferable option - =
does anyone have experience with =
this?&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'><o:p>&nbsp;=
</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif'>Thanks!<o:p=
></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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