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Re: [Tigers] Door project; what I learned

To: James Armstrong <rollright@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Tigers] Door project; what I learned
From: Joe Brown <jbbrown1980@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 10:34:59 -0500
Cc: sunsp22@comcast.net, Tigers Den <tigers@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: tigers@autox.team.net
References: <1372546063.1313391.1590792548550.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1372546063.1313391.1590792548550@mail.yahoo.com>
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Thanks to everyone for all of this information.  I put my doors back
together about a week ago and realized from this discussion that I left out
the donuts. I found my old ones but I don't have enough for all of the
handles and the ones I do have are rough.  I don't see them in the SS
catalog so I may attempt to make some from some masonite or something.

Can somebody verify what the total thickness of one of the full donuts is?
One of mine that still looks good measures .33", but it might have swollen
up over the years.

Thanks,
Joe Brown

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:50 PM James Armstrong via Tigers <
tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
> First off, you are terrific and we are better together. Always.
>
> What I learned:
> - both the window crank shaft and the door opening shaft each use two (2)
> felt donuts or four half donuts(4)           per  door to set up proper
> door panel position and rigidity
> - Rick has these in stock if you need them
> - the door handle and the window crank have very small rubber anti-rattle
> tubes in the actuator insertion cavity.
>   Dr. Ron Fraser gave the dimensions, tentatively as; *Dimensions - .35?
> x .384?        .293? thick *
> - the chrome collar should slide easily into the black plastic collar with
> or without spring. If not, make it so.
> - The original fixing pins were tapered so that they could be inserted
> with a positive stop. Almost no-one has             these today and new
> ones have been fabricated from nails. Extra assembly effort required but OK
> - remember to check for anti-rattle padding behind the door flat actuating
> plate that goes from the handle area       to the latch and travels right
> over the big window mechanism opening in the door
>     You'll see traces of old glue where it was. You can use any kind of
> dampener. Prevents a major rattle on             door closer/slam
>
> Thanks to all that contributed and lent a hand!
>
> Jim Armstrong
> Mk 1A
> 382002083 LRXFE
> Code 86
> TAC #....
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/jbbrown1980@gmail.com
>
>
>

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<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks to everyone for all of this information.=C2=A0 I pu=
t my doors back together about a week ago and realized from this discussion=
 that I left out the donuts. I found my old ones but I don&#39;t have enoug=
h for all of the handles and the ones I do have are rough.=C2=A0 I don&#39;=
t see them in the SS catalog so I may attempt to make some from some masoni=
te or something.=C2=A0=C2=A0<div><br></div><div>Can somebody verify what th=
e total thickness of one of the full donuts is?=C2=A0 One of mine that stil=
l looks good measures .33&quot;, but it might have swollen up over the year=
s.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>Thanks,</div><div>Joe Brown</div></=
div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On=
 Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:50 PM James Armstrong via Tigers &lt;<a href=3D"mai=
lto:tigers@autox.team.net">tigers@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><b=
lockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-le=
ft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"font-family:a=
rial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">Gentlemen,<br><br></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">First off, you are terrific and we are better together. Al=
ways.</span></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">What I learned:</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- both the window crank shaft and the door opening shaft e=
ach use two (2) felt donuts or four half donuts(4)=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0per</span><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-=
serif;font-size:10pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0 <span style=3D"font-family:ar=
ial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">door to set up pr=
oper door panel position and rigidity</span></span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- Rick has these in stock if you need them</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- the door handle and the window crank have very small rub=
ber anti-rattle tubes in the actuator insertion cavity.<br>=C2=A0=C2=A0Dr. =
Ron Fraser gave the dimensions, tentatively as; <em><span style=3D"color:rg=
b(0,0,0);font-family:&quot;New serif&quot;;font-variant-ligatures:normal;fo=
nt-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:400;letter-spacing:normal;text-align:sta=
rt;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacing:0px;=
text-decoration-style:initial;text-decoration-color:initial;float:none;font=
-size:12pt;display:inline">Dimensions - .35? x .384?=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 .293? thick</span> </em><br>- the chrome collar should slide easily =
into the black plastic collar with or without spring. If not, make it so.</=
span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- The original fixing pins were tapered so that they could=
 be inserted with a positive stop. Almost no-one has=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0these today and new ones have been fabricated fr=
om nails. Extra assembly effort required but OK</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">- remember to check for anti-rattle padding behind the doo=
r flat actuating plate that goes from the handle area=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0to the latch and travels right over the big window mechanism opening =
in the door</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)">=C2=A0 =C2=A0 You&#39;ll see traces of old glue where it w=
as. You can use any kind of dampener. Prevents a major rattle on=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0door closer/slam</span></div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0)"><br>Thanks to all that contributed and lent a hand!</span>=
</div>
<div><span style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;c=
olor:rgb(0,0,0);background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><br></span></div>
</div>
<div>
<div>Jim Armstrong</div>
<div>Mk 1A</div>
<div>382002083 LRXFE</div>
<div>Code 86</div>
<div>TAC #....</div>
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</blockquote></div>

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