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Hi Steve,=20
Graham got his issue resolved (at least for now) but here's more or less wh=
at I sent.=20
Firstly, the wire gauges used in the Tiger wiring harness tend toward the s=
mall end of comfort zone, especially when many of us end up putting in more=
powerful accessories.=20
55W halogen headlights draw about five amps each; an aftermarket ignition s=
ystem might draw ten amps. Stereos can draw a LOT. The horns are supposed t=
o be adjusted for about 3.5 amps each (if I recall correctly) but if they a=
re not in adjustment you might see five amps each.=20
All that adds up. Another problem can be that the lights are not fused from=
the factory; we can inspect the factory wiring diagram (online link: [ htt=
p://tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg | http://tige=
rsunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg ] ) to get a sense of=
where there might be inter-related problems, and what switches will take a=
big hit when the various electrical accessories are used.=20
This chart shows the recommended current limits for various gauge and lengt=
h of wire.=20
[ https://wiringproducts.com/pages/wire-amperage-capacity-chart | https://w=
iringproducts.com/pages/wire-amperage-capacity-chart ]=20
The Alpine and Tiger harnesses are pretty skimpy, especially if (over time)=
some of the wire strands end up breaking near connection points due to vib=
ration and other wear and tear.=20
If I was wiring stuff from scratch I would use 12 gauge for the headlights =
where the wires are serving both lights. Where the run splits, you could go=
to 14 or even 16 gauge if the run is short - that would depend on how you =
are running the light wiring. I re-routed the headlight and marker light wi=
ring down the right fender, branch to the right headlight and marker assemb=
ly, and then I ran the left headlight, horn, and marker light wiring along =
the lower radiator support.=20
If you are going to do relays (and add fuses) there are many options. But, =
the most effective and least invasive thing to do would be to add a three-r=
elay block such as this one from Painless: [ https://www.summitracing.com/p=
arts/prf-30107?seid=3Dsrese1 | https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30107=
?seid=3Dsrese1 ]=20
One relay serves the headlights, one for the horns and the last one can be =
used for the ignition circuit (basically, it serves everything coming off t=
erminal 2 of the ignition switch).=20
The wiring instructions for this relay block are here: [ https://static.sum=
mitracing.com/global/images/instructions/prf-30107-30108instruction.pdf | p=
rf-30107-30108instruction.pdf ]=20
With reference to those instructions, the ignition and the headlights are w=
ired according to the Figure 1 "Power activated Circuit" schematic, while t=
he horns are wired according to the "Ground activated Circuit" (figure 2) e=
xcept that the left side (RED) battery connection (for this relay only) mus=
t be rewired so that it connects to a good chassis ground.=20
More specifically:=20
Ignition Relay:=20
The activation switch is the ignition key switch.=20
Remove the #2 terminal connections (all the white wires) and connect them t=
o the (solid color) wire of the relay harness (middle right wire in the Fig=
ure 1 drawing).=20
The upper-right RED/striped trigger wire connects to the #2 terminal of the=
ignition switch.=20
The middle-left RED wire should connect to the supplied circuit breaker and=
it, in turn, should connect to a good 12V source.=20
If you have an ammeter, it connects there; otherwise you could use the batt=
ery terminal of the starter relay, or the 12V (brown wire) B terminal on th=
e generator voltage regulator.=20
The black/stripe wire connects to a good ground near where you mounted the =
relays.=20
Headlight relay:=20
The activation switch is the headlight switch.=20
Remove the BLUE wire that runs from the headlight switch to the high/low be=
am footswitch, and connect it to the (solid color) wire of the relay harnes=
s.=20
The upper-right RED/striped trigger wire connects to the terminal of the he=
adlight switch from which you removed the BLUE wire.=20
Black/stripe wire connects to ground=20
Middle-left RED wire connects to the circuit breaker just as the ignition s=
witch did.=20
Horn relay:=20
This is a ground switched, ground switching circuit so it is not the same a=
s the previous two.=20
The activation switch is the horn ring.=20
The upper-right (in the Figure 2 drawing) RED/stripe wire connects to the c=
ircuit breaker output (where the RED wires from the other relays are connec=
ted). This ensures the horns will work irrespective of whether the ignition=
is on.=20
The black/stripe wire is your trigger wire and it connects to the purple/bl=
ack wire that leads to the horn push in the steering column. You need to di=
sconnect the wire at a convenient point there.=20
The RED wire (left side of diagram) may be pre-wired so that it connects to=
the RED wires of the other relays. If so, it needs to be disconnected from=
that circuit, and instead connected to a good chassis ground. You can usua=
lly use a small screwdriver to undo the push tab on the spade connector in =
the relay socket, then push the connector out; after that you can undo the =
crimp and either use a new spade connector or re-crimp the spade lug onto a=
new piece of (black) wire. Make sure you cut off or otherwise insulate the=
cut-off portion of the old red wire since it will have 12 volts on it when=
the battery is re-connected. Re-install the spade lug into the proper slot=
of the relay socket and attach the other end of that wire to a good chassi=
s ground.=20
The RED/stripe output wire now connects to the other part of the purple/bla=
ck wire that leads to the horns.=20
The above description applies to the Painless kit and the instructions they=
have posted... there are lots of other possible relays and kits that could=
be used for this purpose. If you have questions about a particular kit you=
are working with, let me know.=20
In general, don't forget to practice electrical safety. Disconnect the batt=
ery before starting. Insulate all connections and make sure connections are=
crimped tight or bolted down. I put pieces of rubber vacuum hose over the =
ends of those circuit breaker screw terminals, to make it less likely a str=
ay wrench or screwdriver touches a hot circuit. That circuit breaker (in th=
e Painless kit) is rated at 50A, but the wiring at the relays and downstrea=
m is not, so you may want to add lower amperage inline fuses to protect the=
wiring. The headlights could be fused at 20A and the horns at 15 amps; thi=
s is about double the expected current in normal operation, but if somethin=
g causes a short then it will blow that fuse before the wiring overheats.=
=20
Cheers,=20
Theo=20
From: "STEVE MURPHY via Tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>=20
To: "tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net>=20
Sent: Monday, December 1, 2025 12:46:39 PM=20
Subject: [Tigers] Light Switch Outputs=20
I'd be interested in the diagram for adding a relay to the headlights. Horn=
too, if you have that.=20
Thank you,=20
Steve=20
> On 12/01/2025 2:00 PM EST tigers-request@autox.team.net wrote:=20
>=20
>=20
> Send Tigers mailing list submissions to=20
> tigers@autox.team.net=20
>=20
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit=20
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers=20
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to=20
> tigers-request@autox.team.net=20
>=20
> You can reach the person managing the list at=20
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>=20
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific=20
> than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."=20
> Today's Topics:=20
>=20
> 1. Light Switch Outputs (gharlowe@comcast.net)=20
> 2. Re: Light Switch Outputs (Theo Smit)=20
> _______________________________________________=20
> Tigers mailing list=20
> Tigers@autox.team.net=20
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers=20
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve=20
>=20
>=20
> All =E2=80=93=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Long story short, I decided to take an inventory of how my Tiger=E2=80=99=
s lights are reacting in response to the dash light switch. In mid-position=
(marker lights only?), the two front white marker lights come on and the b=
ottom tail light lenses illuminate. Brake pedal application doubles the bri=
ghtness of the bottom lens.=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> With the dash light switch in the fully ON position, I get headlights, bu=
t nothing in the yellow/white lenses in the front; however, I also get noth=
ing in the rear lights (whatsoever!). This doesn=E2=80=99t seem right or sa=
fe, but I=E2=80=99ve forgotten after so many years of daylight-only driving=
which lights are supposed to be illuminated with the switch in mid-positio=
n vs full position.=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> To aid in troubleshooting, what should happen front/back in mid-switch po=
sition vs full position?=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Thanks and Happy Holidays to you!=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Graham Harlowe=20
>=20
> B382001466=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> That sounds like your switch is not working properly anymore. If you go u=
nder the dash and switch the position of the headlight wire and the taillig=
ht/marker light wires, you should find that the behavior is reversed. Or ma=
ybe the switch will just fall apart... they are not especially sturdy, and =
they can get distorted because of heating due to all the light current flow=
ing through the switch.=20
>=20
> If/when you replace the switch, you should consider wiring in a relay to =
power the headlights. That reduces the current through the switch from 10 a=
mps to less than one amp.=20
>=20
> If you have questions about that I can draw up a diagram.=20
>=20
> While you are at it, also make sure that the ground connections to all th=
e lights are good.=20
>=20
> Cheers,=20
> Theo=20
>=20
>=20
> > On Nov 30, 2025, at 4:14 PM, gharlowe--- via Tigers <tigers@autox.team.=
net> wrote:=20
> >=20
> >=20
>=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > All =E2=80=93=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > Long story short, I decided to take an inventory of how my Tiger=E2=80=
=99s lights are reacting in response to the dash light switch. In mid-posit=
ion (marker lights only?), the two front white marker lights come on and th=
e bottom tail light lenses illuminate. Brake pedal application doubles the =
brightness of the bottom lens.=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > With the dash light switch in the fully ON position, I get headlights, =
but nothing in the yellow/white lenses in the front; however, I also get no=
thing in the rear lights (whatsoever!). This doesn=E2=80=99t seem right or =
safe, but I=E2=80=99ve forgotten after so many years of daylight-only drivi=
ng which lights are supposed to be illuminated with the switch in mid-posit=
ion vs full position.=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > To aid in troubleshooting, what should happen front/back in mid-switch =
position vs full position?=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > Thanks and Happy Holidays to you!=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > Graham Harlowe=20
> >=20
> > B382001466=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
> > _______________________________________________=20
> >=20
> > tigers@autox.team.net=20
> >=20
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html=20
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/arc=
hive=20
> >=20
> > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca=
=20
> >=20
> >=20
> >=20
_______________________________________________=20
tigers@autox.team.net=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive=
=20
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca=20
--=_affd0cf6-6840-49df-887e-5486c20705a9
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><body><div style=3D"font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-s=
ize: 10pt; color: #000000"><div data-marker=3D"__QUOTED_TEXT__"><div style=
=3D"font-family: 'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color=
: #000000;" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: 'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-ser=
if; font-size: 10pt; color: #000000;"><div>Hi Steve,</div><div>Graham got h=
is issue resolved (at least for now) but here's more or less what I sent.</=
div><div><br></div><div>Firstly, the wire gauges used in the Tiger wiring h=
arness tend toward the small end of comfort zone, especially when many of u=
s end up putting in more powerful accessories.</div><div>55W halogen headli=
ghts draw about five amps each; an aftermarket ignition system might draw t=
en amps. Stereos can draw a LOT. The horns are supposed to be adjusted for =
about 3.5 amps each (if I recall correctly) but if they are not in adjustme=
nt you might see five amps each.</div><div>All that adds up. Another proble=
m can be that the lights are not fused from the factory; we can inspect the=
factory wiring diagram (online link: <a href=3D"http://tigersunited.com/re=
sources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow n=
oopener noreferrer" style=3D"color: #336699; text-decoration: none; cursor:=
pointer; caret-color: #336699; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: =
13.333333px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 40=
0; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0=
px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: =
0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" data-mce-href=3D"http://tigersunited.=
com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg" data-mce-style=3D"color: #336=
699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; caret-color: #336699; font-fam=
ily: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333px; font-style: normal; font-va=
riant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto=
; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: n=
ormal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;">ht=
tp://tigersunited.com/resources/wsm/tt-images/MKIBIGwiring.jpg</a>) to get =
a sense of where there might be inter-related problems, and what switches w=
ill take a big hit when the various electrical accessories are used.</div><=
div><br></div><div><div dir=3D"ltr" style=3D"caret-color: #000000; color: #=
000000; font-family: 'Segoe UI', 'Lucida Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14.1=
6px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; lette=
r-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text=
-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -we=
bkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" data-mce-style=3D"care=
t-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-family: 'Segoe UI', 'Lucida Sans', s=
ans-serif; font-size: 14.16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: norma=
l; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: sta=
rt; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: au=
to; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: non=
e;">This chart shows the recommended current limits for various gauge and l=
ength of wire. </div><div dir=3D"ltr" style=3D"caret-color: #000000; c=
olor: #000000; font-family: 'Segoe UI', 'Lucida Sans', sans-serif; font-siz=
e: 14.16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400=
; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0p=
x; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0=
px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" data-mce-style=
=3D"caret-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-family: 'Segoe UI', 'Lucida =
Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14.16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-cap=
s: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-al=
ign: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; wi=
dows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decorat=
ion: none;"><span class=3D"Object" role=3D"link" id=3D"OBJ_PREFIX_DWT14_com=
_zimbra_url" style=3D"color: #336699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointe=
r;" data-mce-style=3D"color: #336699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointe=
r;"><a href=3D"https://wiringproducts.com/pages/wire-amperage-capacity-char=
t" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" style=3D"color: #=
336699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;" data-mce-href=3D"https://w=
iringproducts.com/pages/wire-amperage-capacity-chart" data-mce-style=3D"col=
or: #336699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;">https://wiringproduct=
s.com/pages/wire-amperage-capacity-chart</a></span></div></div><div>The Alp=
ine and Tiger harnesses are pretty skimpy, especially if (over time) some o=
f the wire strands end up breaking near connection points due to vibration =
and other wear and tear.</div><div><br></div><div>If I was wiring stuff fro=
m scratch I would use 12 gauge for the headlights where the wires are servi=
ng both lights. Where the run splits, you could go to 14 or even 16 gauge i=
f the run is short - that would depend on how you are running the light wir=
ing. I re-routed the headlight and marker light wiring down the right fende=
r, branch to the right headlight and marker assembly, and then I ran the le=
ft headlight, horn, and marker light wiring along the lower radiator suppor=
t.</div><div><br></div><div>If you are going to do relays (and add fuses) t=
here are many options. But, the most effective and least invasive thing to =
do would be to add a three-relay block such as this one from Painless:<span=
style=3D"caret-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-family: 'Segoe UI', 'L=
ucida Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14.16px; font-style: normal; font-varia=
nt-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; t=
ext-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: norm=
al; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; backgr=
ound-color: #fdfdfd; text-decoration: none; display: inline !important; flo=
at: none;" data-mce-style=3D"caret-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-fam=
ily: 'Segoe UI', 'Lucida Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14.16px; font-style:=
normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: norma=
l; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none=
; white-space: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke=
-width: 0px; background-color: #fdfdfd; text-decoration: none; display: inl=
ine !important; float: none;"> </span><span class=3D"Object" role=3D"l=
ink" id=3D"OBJ_PREFIX_DWT15_com_zimbra_url" style=3D"color: #336699; text-d=
ecoration: none; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Segoe UI', 'Lucida Sans', s=
ans-serif; font-size: 14.16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: norma=
l; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: sta=
rt; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: au=
to; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" data-mce-style=3D"c=
olor: #336699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer; font-family: 'Segoe =
UI', 'Lucida Sans', sans-serif; font-size: 14.16px; font-style: normal; fon=
t-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: =
auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-spac=
e: normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;=
"><a href=3D"https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30107?seid=3Dsrese1"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" style=3D"color: #33669=
9; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;" data-mce-href=3D"https://www.su=
mmitracing.com/parts/prf-30107?seid=3Dsrese1" data-mce-style=3D"color: #336=
699; text-decoration: none; cursor: pointer;">https://www.summitracing.com/=
parts/prf-30107?seid=3Dsrese1</a></span><div style=3D"clear: both;" data-mc=
e-style=3D"clear: both;"><br></div><div style=3D"clear: both;" data-mce-sty=
le=3D"clear: both;">One relay serves the headlights, one for the horns and =
the last one can be used for the ignition circuit (basically, it serves eve=
rything coming off terminal 2 of the ignition switch).</div><div style=3D"c=
lear: both;" data-mce-style=3D"clear: both;"><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div=
><div style=3D"clear: both;" data-mce-style=3D"clear: both;">The wiring ins=
tructions for this relay block are here: <a href=3D"https://static.sum=
mitracing.com/global/images/instructions/prf-30107-30108instruction.pdf" st=
yle=3D"font-size: 10pt;">prf-30107-30108instruction.pdf</a></div><div style=
=3D"clear: both;" data-mce-style=3D"clear: both;">With reference to those i=
nstructions, the ignition and the headlights are wired according to the Fig=
ure 1 "Power activated Circuit" schematic, while the horns are wired accord=
ing to the "Ground activated Circuit" (figure 2) except that the left side =
(RED) battery connection (for this relay only) must be rewired so that it c=
onnects to a good chassis ground.</div><div style=3D"clear: both;" data-mce=
-style=3D"clear: both;"><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div style=3D"clear:=
both;" data-mce-style=3D"clear: both;">More specifically:</div><div style=
=3D"clear: both;" data-mce-style=3D"clear: both;">Ignition Relay: </di=
v></div><div>The activation switch is the ignition key switch. </div><div>R=
emove the #2 terminal connections (all the white wires) and connect them to=
the (solid color) wire of the relay harness (middle right wire in the Figu=
re 1 drawing).</div><div>The upper-right RED/striped trigger wire connects =
to the #2 terminal of the ignition switch.</div><div>The middle-left RED wi=
re should connect to the supplied circuit breaker and it, in turn, should c=
onnect to a good 12V source. </div><div>If you have an ammeter, it connects=
there; otherwise you could use the battery terminal of the starter relay, =
or the 12V (brown wire) B terminal on the generator voltage regulator. </di=
v><div>The black/stripe wire connects to a good ground near where you mount=
ed the relays.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Headlight rela=
y:</div><div>The activation switch is the headlight switch. </div><div>Remo=
ve the BLUE wire that runs from the headlight switch to the high/low beam f=
ootswitch, and connect it to the (solid color) wire of the relay harness.</=
div><div>The upper-right RED/striped trigger wire connects to the terminal =
of the headlight switch from which you removed the BLUE wire.</div><div>Bla=
ck/stripe wire connects to ground</div><div>Middle-left RED wire connects t=
o the circuit breaker just as the ignition switch did.</div><div><br data-m=
ce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Horn relay:</div><div>This is a ground switched, =
ground switching circuit so it is not the same as the previous two.</div><d=
iv>The activation switch is the horn ring.</div><div>The upper-right (in th=
e Figure 2 drawing) RED/stripe wire connects to the circuit breaker output =
(where the RED wires from the other relays are connected). This ensures the=
horns will work irrespective of whether the ignition is on.</div><div>The =
black/stripe wire is your trigger wire and it connects to the purple/black =
wire that leads to the horn push in the steering column. You need to discon=
nect the wire at a convenient point there.</div><div>The RED wire (left sid=
e of diagram) may be pre-wired so that it connects to the RED wires of the =
other relays. If so, it needs to be disconnected from that circuit, and ins=
tead connected to a good chassis ground. You can usually use a small screwd=
river to undo the push tab on the spade connector in the relay socket, then=
push the connector out; after that you can undo the crimp and either use a=
new spade connector or re-crimp the spade lug onto a new piece of (black) =
wire. Make sure you cut off or otherwise insulate the cut-off portion of th=
e old red wire since it will have 12 volts on it when the battery is re-con=
nected. Re-install the spade lug into the proper slot of the relay socket a=
nd attach the other end of that wire to a good chassis ground.</div><div>Th=
e RED/stripe output wire now connects to the other part of the purple/black=
wire that leads to the horns.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><di=
v><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>The above description applies to the =
Painless kit and the instructions they have posted... there are lots of oth=
er possible relays and kits that could be used for this purpose. If you hav=
e questions about a particular kit you are working with, let me know.</div>=
<div>In general, don't forget to practice electrical safety. Disconnect the=
battery before starting. Insulate all connections and make sure connection=
s are crimped tight or bolted down. I put pieces of rubber vacuum hose over=
the ends of those circuit breaker screw terminals, to make it less likely =
a stray wrench or screwdriver touches a hot circuit. That circuit breaker (=
in the Painless kit) is rated at 50A, but the wiring at the relays and down=
stream is not, so you may want to add lower amperage inline fuses to protec=
t the wiring. The headlights could be fused at 20A and the horns at 1=
5 amps; this is about double the expected current in normal operation, but =
if something causes a short then it will blow that fuse before the wiring o=
verheats.</div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>T=
heo </div><div><br data-mce-bogus=3D"1"></div></div><div style=3D"font=
-family: 'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; color: #00000=
0;" data-mce-style=3D"font-family: 'arial' , 'helvetica' , sans-serif; font=
-size: 10pt; color: #000000;"><br><br><br><hr id=3D"zwchr"><div><b>From: </=
b>"STEVE MURPHY via Tigers" <tigers@autox.team.net><br><b>To: </b>"ti=
gers" <tigers@autox.team.net><br><b>Sent: </b>Monday, December 1, 202=
5 12:46:39 PM<br><b>Subject: </b>[Tigers] Light Switch Outputs<br></div><br=
><div>I'd be interested in the diagram for adding a relay to the headlights=
. Horn too, if you have that.<br><br>Thank you,<br><br>Steve<br>> On 12/=
01/2025 2:00 PM EST tigers-request@autox.team.net wrote:<br>> <br>> &=
nbsp;<br>> Send Tigers mailing list submissions to<br>> &=
nbsp; tigers@autox.team.net<br>> <br>> T=
o subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>> &nbs=
p; http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinf=
o/tigers<br>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' =
to<br>> tigers-request@a=
utox.team.net<br>> <br>> You can reach the person managing the list a=
t<br>> tigers-owner@auto=
x.team.net<br>> <br>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so=
it is more specific<br>> than "Re: Contents of Tigers digest..."<br>>=
; Today's Topics:<br>> <br>> 1. Light Switch Outputs (gh=
arlowe@comcast.net)<br>> 2. Re: Light Switch Outputs (Theo =
Smit)<br>> _______________________________________________<br>> Tiger=
s mailing list<br>> Tigers@autox.team.net<br>> http://autox.team.net/=
mailman/listinfo/tigers<br>> <br>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate=
.html<br>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.te=
am.net/archive<br>> <br>> <br>> All =E2=80=93<br>> <br>&g=
t; <br>> <br>> Long story short, I decided to take an inventory=
of how my Tiger=E2=80=99s lights are reacting in response to the dash ligh=
t switch. In mid-position (marker lights only?), the two front white=
marker lights come on and the bottom tail light lenses illuminate. =
Brake pedal application doubles the brightness of the bottom lens. <br>>=
<br>> <br>> <br>> With the dash light switch in the fully O=
N position, I get headlights, but nothing in the yellow/white lenses in the=
front; however, I also get nothing in the rear lights (whatsoever!).  =
; This doesn=E2=80=99t seem right or safe, but I=E2=80=99ve forgotten after=
so many years of daylight-only driving which lights are supposed to be ill=
uminated with the switch in mid-position vs full position. <br>> <=
br>> <br>> <br>> To aid in troubleshooting, what should happ=
en front/back in mid-switch position vs full position? <br>> <br>&=
gt; <br>> <br>> Thanks and Happy Holidays to you!<br>> <br>&=
gt; <br>> <br>> Graham Harlowe<br>> <br>> B382001466<br>&=
gt; <br>> <br>> <br>> &nb=
sp; &=
nbsp; =
&nbs=
p; That sounds like=
your switch is not working properly anymore. If you go under the dash and =
switch the position of the headlight wire and the taillight/marker light wi=
res, you should find that the behavior is reversed. Or maybe the switch wil=
l just fall apart... they are not especially sturdy, and they can get disto=
rted because of heating due to all the light current flowing through the sw=
itch. <br>> <br>> If/when you replace the switch, you should consider=
wiring in a relay to power the headlights. That reduces the current throug=
h the switch from 10 amps to less than one amp. <br>> <br>> If you ha=
ve questions about that I can draw up a diagram. <br>> <br>> While yo=
u are at it, also make sure that the ground connections to all the lights a=
re good. <br>> <br>> Cheers,<br>> Theo<br>> <br>> <br>> &=
gt; On Nov 30, 2025, at 4:14=E2=80=AFPM, gharlowe--- via Tigers <tigers@=
autox.team.net> wrote:<br>> > <br>> > <br>> <br>> >=
<br>> > <br>> > <br>> > <br>> > All =E2=80=
=93<br>> > <br>> > <br>> > <br>> > Long story=
short, I decided to take an inventory of how my Tiger=E2=80=99s lights are=
reacting in response to the dash light switch. In mid-position (mar=
ker lights only?), the two front white marker lights come on and the bottom=
tail light lenses illuminate. Brake pedal application doubles the b=
rightness of the bottom lens. <br>> > <br>> > <br>> &g=
t; <br>> > With the dash light switch in the fully ON position, I get=
headlights, but nothing in the yellow/white lenses in the front; however, =
I also get nothing in the rear lights (whatsoever!). This doesn=E2=
=80=99t seem right or safe, but I=E2=80=99ve forgotten after so many years =
of daylight-only driving which lights are supposed to be illuminated with t=
he switch in mid-position vs full position. <br>> > <br>> &g=
t; <br>> > <br>> > To aid in troubleshooting, what should=
happen front/back in mid-switch position vs full position? <br>> =
> <br>> > <br>> > <br>> > Thanks and Happy Holid=
ays to you!<br>> > <br>> > <br>> > <br>> > Gr=
aham Harlowe<br>> > <br>> > B382001466<br>> > <br>> &g=
t; <br>> > <br>> > &nb=
sp; &=
nbsp; =
&nbs=
p; <br>> > <b=
r>> > _______________________________________________<br>> > <b=
r>> > tigers@autox.team.net<br>> > <br>> > Donate: http:/=
/www.team.net/donate.html<br>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/piperma=
il/tigers http://autox.team.net/archive<br>> > <br>> > Unsubscr=
ibe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/tsmit@shaw.ca<br>> >=
; <br>> > <br>> ><br>__________________________________________=
_____<br><br>tigers@autox.team.net<br><br>Donate: http://www.team.net/donat=
e.html<br>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/tigers http://autox.team.n=
et/archive<br><br>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers=
/tsmit@shaw.ca</div></div><br></div></div></body></html>
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