Sam,
Thanks for your response.
I do have a few clarification questions for you.
>There is a oil pressure relief valve on the filter head assy. The spring
in this assembly may > need replacing. It also has an adjusting screw for
adjusting pressure.
I believe the spring to be OK as the oil pressure, cold, never goes too
high, approx 72 psi.
Could the spring/assy be bad? I removed and cleaned it, hoping there was
something jamming it open. The spring is powerful. Am I missing
something?
>Usually low oil pressure means worn rod-main bearings. You are at the
clearance limit on the bearings you checked.
I know. I am a little nervous about just how hard it is to do the
bearings with the crank in the car. I have gotten a lot of mixed mail
about it. Everyone says it can be done, but it would be much easier if I
pull the engine, something I can't do this year. The car is up on
jackstands, so I have decent access. If the shells can be pushed through
with all three mains loose it shouldn't be too much of a problem. I
hadn't considered that the pressure on the upper shells would be gone
once all three mains were removed.
>If it were my engine, I would replace the main and rod bearings with
>standard units with the crank in the engine and the engine in the car.
>I did this to my car 15 yrs, l5,000 miles ago. This is an easy fix ,
but I would
>not expect more than 30,000 from it. Remove the main bearings and
>the crank will be supported by the tranny and the timing chain. The
upper bearing
>shells can be rolled out by using the lower shell to start it. The
front
>bearing cap has a aluminium block between it and the oil pan that must
>be removed. There are two screws that hold the cap to the front plate
>that are easy to overlook. The downside to this fix is that it is
difficult to
>prevent leaks, but if anyone is fussy about oil drips, then you will not
be
>happy with a 50's car anyway.
I am looking forward ten years or so until I can do a complete
restoration. The car is in very good shape now. That is when the kids
will be just old enough for a family project restoration. 30,000 miles
is a lot more than I anticipate in ten years so that would be great. I
live in NJ and the only way insurance was affordable was with a 2,500
mile/year limitation..
The front main has the gasket that cannot be replaced unless the crank
is removed, correct? From what I have been told by others on the list, a
good slug of silicone, kept away from any oilways, should work to
prevent/limit drips. Also, have you found a better solution to the
felt/shellac seals?
BTW, I am a little fussy about oil drips. I actually got my Norton
practically drip free after three years. When I bought it leaked almost
as much oil as I burned gas. Silicone on one surface and mold release on
the other allows for reasonable disassembly later on, while still
providing a great seal. Obviously, it only adheres on one surface, but
in these low/no pressure applications it works.
> Re; thrust washers, My book shows ,004 -.006 play. Order std and
>oversize to come up with the right combo. ,005 is available, maybe
>others, try TRF. You my need to use the oversize on one side std on the
other.
You are right. spec is 4-6 thou. I didn't think about mixing oversized
and standard thrust bearings; that is a great idea!
> Check the end float by moving the crank untilled it seats agin the
>thrust and check the gap on the opposite thrust with a feeler guage.
That is just what I did. The Haynes manual said push the crank forward
to measure the end float.
>Put Vandervell bearings in it.
Vandervells, that is also what I have heard.
I appreciate you assistance. You are an original owner; I am a long time
wanna bee, who finally did it! Although we were looking for TR6's, when
we fell head over heels for the 3's.
I believe from your comments the bearings will not be a major challenge.
I would however, appreciate a little clarification on the above items,
partially as a confidence builder.
Thanks again.
Jack Brooks
Hillsdale, New Jersey
1960 TR3-A TS69032L
1974 Norton Commando Roadster
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