In a message dated 97-01-13 08:24:56 EST, you write:
> This is what I did with my TR-3, oh so many years ago.
> I mounted a radio unit so that it was isolated from the body
> (ie., wooden panel in the glove box, for example) and then
> wired positive to positive and negative to negative. Then
> you also have to isolate the antenna, since the co-ax lead
> is connected to the body ground. What I did there was to
> remove the outer insulation, then cut the braid and remove
> about an inch of the braid. Then I soldered a capacitor
> across the gap in the braid, so that it would be connected
> for high frequency signals, but without the DC short. Then
> everything was covered back up with either electrical tape
> or shrink tubing. It worked like a charm.
> I'm sure there are other schemes, but this was easy. <snip>
John, thanks for the info. I thought of doing that but didn't want to take
the risk of having the insulation fail due to vibration rubbing it to the
point that would create a short between the radio and some part of the car.
So - I figured that there were 2 safe ways to go:
1) Rewire the car for positive ground (which is reatively simple - I have
SINCE found out) OR
2) Design an electrical circuit which would use an inverter to flip the
polarity and then connect the radio to that circuit.
I chose the 2nd option and it works fine. But knowing what I know now, I
would probably rewire the car itself to negative ground - (realizing that
screws up the originality concept).
Thanks again. Cheers.
Art Kelly '64 TR4 CT33118L (original owner)