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Garage advice - no LBC content

To: EPaul21988@aol.com
Subject: Garage advice - no LBC content
From: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>
Date: Fri, 04 Apr 1997 09:22:55 -0500
Cc: mood@erols.com, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: TTC
References: <970404085108_-501577032@emout15.mail.aol.com>
Greeting all,

I just built the garage Bob is talking about. My comments:

EPaul21988@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 97-04-03 23:16:12 EST, mood@erols.com (Jon Moody) writes:
> 
> << Jon Moody
>  '73 TR6
> 
>  p.s.  Any other suggestions re garage building would be appreciated


Snip

> It's also a good idea to figure in the design where the shelves will go, and
> how to use the 'attic' storage.  There are some improvements I would make
> after using it for awhile though.

Shelving: I scrounged retail store shelving units. Just about any
shopping center with vacant stores has abandoned store fixtures. I got
mine for the cost of renting a truck to move them. My 36 X 38 shop has
several free standing units against the walls, and 28 feet of double
siding shelving running right up the middle. I have about 700 lineal
feet of shelving to organize all the little bits and pieces. I have no
idea how I ever got by without it.

> 1. A  sound deadened, ventilated area, either as a shed on the outside or in
> a corner of the garage to put the compressor in.  The racket is driving me
> nuts.

Agreed. Havn't done this yet, will do so soon. Will stay in the shop. I
plan to use the board insutlation I used to insulate the walls to make a
sound enclosure. Not too small to restrict proper cooling. Still
figuring the size.

> 2. Dig a pit in one side  for underside work.  I'm so irked that I didn't
> think of this early enough to do it myself. It could be poured at the same
> time you pour the garage pad, or built first out of cinder block or I've even
> seen plastic liner kits sold in Hemmings.  It sure would make oil changes and
> lubing easier.

Disagree. By the time you build a pit built to construction code, you
just bought a lift. A pit will not help you with suspension work, as the
car is sitting on it's wheels. Forget the pit, build with sufficient
clearance to install a lift. I built a 10 foot building with a standard
pitched roof, but spanned a truss giving my the benefit of a full 16
feet in the center of the bay.  

> 3. Put in-floor radient heat into the concrete slab.  This is another simple
> no-brainer that I did not snap to soon enough.  If you're an average
> handy-man you can install it yourself.  I build a wood shop after the garage
> and did install it there.  I use a simple recirculating pump and a hot water
> heater as the boiler. Works a treat !  Imagine laying on a WARM concrete
> floor in the winter !

Agree. Strongly. I installed a radiant heat system and don't have to
imagine laying on a warm concrete floor in the winter, I have done it!
Awesome. The slab acts as a big heat sink so everything in the shop is
warm. Tools don't sweat from the temp bouncing around. You can open the
roll up door to move a car in or out, and you don't loose you entire
heat load. The air warms right back up.
 
> I don't know about the vapor barrier, that's not a problem we deal with in
> New Mexico (even though my water table is at 5 feet!) but it's easy to do and
> won't cause a problem so why not.

With radiant heat you need a vapor barrier and a layer in insulation
under the slab.

> Just my .02  on garages.  Have fun with the construction.
> 
> Bob Paul
> Corrales NM

Have fun!

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