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TR6 Tranny removal

To: JCBOUCHARD@aol.com
Subject: TR6 Tranny removal
From: Dave Terrick <dterrick@pangea.ca>
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 1997 15:09:18 -0500
YES YOU CAN JOE!   Dave Terrick here (20 something,   semi - in shape).

You are familiar with most of the procedure, ie remove all interior that
you don't want greasy.  Remove the steering wheel and seat runners too,
they just get in the way and are uncomfortable to sit on.  You may need to
really yank on the handbrake and put the tranny in reverse to remove the
cover.  Also, a pull out stereo will necessitate the same thing.

Undo the flange bolts while the car is level on the ground.

Rasie the car about a foot, or more if possible, at both ends on
jackstands.  Ensure the front stands are up near the front suspension so
you have room to work near the tranny bolts.

Removing the bolts is the fun part- an assistant holding a wrench on the
other side is your best bet, especially  for the starter.  Remember to
disconnect the earth before you start unless you like welding.

BE SURE TO LEAVE ONE BOLT ON THE TOP OF THE BELLHOUSING UNTIL LAST  SO YOU
DONT HANG THE TRANNY'S WEIGHT ON THE INPUT SHAFT!!!!!!!

Note on rear mounts:  spool type you can loosen the lower nut and list the
tranny over the mounting frame,  the old style should have the 2 big bolts
removed,  though in both cases getting the whole bracket out of the way is
a good idea for reassembly purposes.

SUPPORT THE MOTOR USING A SISCOR  STYLE JACK and 2X6 OR SO UNDER THE OIL
PAN (CAREFUL, SPREAD THE LOAD ACROSS BOTH EDGES OF THE PAN)

Place a large garage style jack under the tranny near the drain plug in
such a way that you can pull it backwards with the tranny.  Remove the last
bolt at the top of the bellhousing,  remember the jack should be supporting
the weight now.  Pull backwards, you may have to jiggle sideways and around
a bit, and Voila,  it's out.

Depending on ow greasy it is you may want assistance in removal, because
the most effective way is to hoist it onto your lap (?!?) while sitting
where the passenger seat WAS.  Slide it over the sills and onto the ground.
 I think it weighs 70 or 80 lbs but it is awkward and it will make a mess
of anything it touches.

Replacement is a lot easier because you will have cleaned everything and
made sure all the nuts and bolts are free of rust and grime.  Place the
tranny on the passenger floor, and then shuttle it onto the jack.  Find the
balance point and use the jack to raise and lower the tranny... lift and
depress the tail end to adjust for the angle of the engine.  MAKE SURE YOU
HAVE ALIGNED THE CLUTCH PROPERLY,  EVEN THEN YOU MAY NEED TO WIGGLE THE
'BOX AROUND AND TURN THE output SHAFT.

Place the top bolts in first, again to avoid hanging the tranny on the
input shaft.    Replace everything else in reverse order.  It may be useful
to road test the car with no cover or interior in case there is a problem.

FYI,  R&R can be done in one day on your own without being over ambitious,
but a few friends and a few beers can be helpful.  Especially in getting
the friends over.

Good luck.

Dave Terrick

PS:  I've also rebuilt many 'boxes so I can comment there if needed as well.  

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