There is a pretty good write up of this (with pictures!) at
http://www.sarnia.com/obsolete/catalog/tr/6clutch.html
I have no interest blah blah blah...
Peter Zaborski
76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
Calgary AB Canada
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack I. Brooks [SMTP:brooks@belcotech.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 1997 6:15 AM
> To: wh6ef@pixi.com
> Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Clutch pin fix
>
> Jim,
>
> Basically, what I and others have done, is to add a second source of
> reinforcement to supplement the taper pin. A good method is to add a
> 5/16
> or other reasonable sized grade 8, fine thread, machine bolt (fully
> threaded
> shaft), 90 degrees offset from the taper pin, on the other side of the
> clutch fork. I used only a hand drill, a single tap and die, etc.,
> nothing
> fancy.
>
> What I did was to disassemble the entire clutch actuation assembly,
> clean
> and replace fork pins, bushings etc, as required. With the shaft/fork
> assembly out of the bellhousing, I installed the fork on the shaft
> with the
> taper pin fitting snugly, like a spark plug. MAKE SURE THE FORK FACES
> THE
> RIGHT WAY. On the opposite side of the clutch fork, at 90 degrees to
> the
> taper pin, drill through both the fork and shaft. Remove the taper
> pin and
> fork from the shaft. Deburr and tap the shaft. Enlarge and deburr
> the
> holes (both sides) in the fork, to clear the Grade 8 bolt threads. I
> also
> suggest drilling through the head of the bolt, flat to flat, for a
> safety
> wire. If you take your time and use a sharp drill and lots of lube
> you can
> easily make this hole, although I consider it the most difficult part
> of the
> whole installation. I used a washer and a nyloc nut on the threaded
> end of
> the bolt, although it really is somewhat redundant, as the shaft is
> threaded
> and the bolt is safety wired.
>
> Important points:
>
> Make sure everything moves throughout it's full range of motion during
> final
> reassembly. If the bolt is too long and hits the case, mine was, you
> may
> have to flip it, end for end.
>
> Tighten the bolt firmly. The bolt operates on friction between the
> fork and
> shaft, to keep the fork from moving on the shaft. This is why I added
> the
> nyloc nut. It provides the tight hold down on the other side of the
> fork
> too.
>
> That's about it. Look over your parts and visualize what I am talking
> about. Basically all I did is add a (strong) redundant system to
> strengthen
> the connection.
>
> BTW - on any future correspondence, mail me directly and cc the list.
> I am
> on the digest so I didin't get you message right away and I don't
> always get
> the opportunity to read the digests for a few days.
>
> Jack
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