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Re: Paint vs. Powder Coat

To: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: Paint vs. Powder Coat
From: Joe Seward <jsseward@erols.com>
Date: Tue, 04 Nov 1997 18:44:42 -0500
References: <971103132343_137232023@mrin44.mail.aol.com>
JoeSimcoe@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Am now leaning towards having the frame of my TR250 dipped instead of
> blasted.  (in order to get at the rust on the inside)
> 
> Dipping shop won't prime it when it's done, but has offered to powder coat
> it.
> 
> Am personally leaning toward just painting it - anyone care to comment on the
> pro's and con's of powder coating????
> 
> TIA
> JoeSimcoe

Listers,

When I was restoring my TR6 a few years ago, I was fortunate to have access to 
a powder coat gun.  It was homemade, using a siphon feed sand blasting gun and 
some teflon pipe.  I have the article (somewhere) upon which it was based.  The 
technique we use is fairly simple.  After thorough bead blasting and 
degreasing, we apray on the powder coat and bake the part in a 400 F oven for 
10-15 minutes (depending upon the thickness of the part).  The gun only needs 
30-40 PSI and very little volume of air.  The gun must be grounded to earth and 
the part.  The powder picks up a static charge as it is forced through the 
teflon, and sticks to the part.  Once the part is baked and cools, it is ready 
to bolt on.

As I see it, there are several advantages to powder coat.  It is very tough, 
and will withstand over a minute of sand blasting at 100 PSI (where most paint 
would last seconds).  You can use epoxy, polyester, or hybrid powders depending 
upon your need (chemical/solvent resistance vs. durability of finish).  There 
are numerous choices of color and texture.  It worked great on my suspension 
parts, bumper braces, numerous clips, pipes, interior trim pieces, the steering 
column...

The down side is that if it chips, it tends to lift around the exposed area. I 
found this to be a problem where bolts go through a piece without a washer, as 
they crush/chip the coating.  The chip can be touched up with paint, but not 
with more powder coat.  Once the finish is cured, reheating will damage it.  
Also, the size of your oven and how much stink it can withstand are limiting 
factors for the do-it-yourself type.  Also, many parts won't withstand 400F.  
Masking areas, such as threads or bearing surfaces, is difficult as the powder 
tends to get into everything and can be easily brushed off until it is baked.  
I decided to paint the frame, hoping that the primer would help protect the 
metal even after the paint chips off.  Powder coat is hard to chip, but it goes 
to the metal when it does.  In my experience, powder coat doesn't bond as 
firmly as paint once it is damaged.

Hope that wasn't more than you wanted.

Joe Seward
'73 TR6


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