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>out to the local 'expert' for a once-over
Most of the folks called British car experts are most
interested in draining your wallet... not always true,
but certainly a loud clue.
** You might be somewhat correct. I went to see "Bella"
(i've sinced named the TR) at lunchtime. Here's what was
>- vacuum advance diaphram need to be replaced (?)
Only the '69 and '70 TR6's had a dual vacuum unit with
advance and retard... If the distributor only has one,
its a retard... its best to plug this at the carb.
This comment, if correct would make me nervous.
** I asked him to plug the vacuum line at the carb and
he told me the diaphragm was already on order. Too
>- Right front-end is sloppy; either a tie rod or bushings. He says if
The tie rod end is hanging out in the breeze, if he couldn't
see it to check it, I'd be running from this place. Once again,
I wasn't there.
** What he did here was to pull and twist on the front rotor and
showed me a little play; maybe 1/4" to 1/2". The rubber boot was
in poor condition. When he initially thought it might either a
tie rod or a "rack" I believe he mean the whole front end;
because when I asked him how much a "rack" was he told me around
$500! He's going to replace the bronze bushings in the rack
instead. What do you think?
>- the tranny is loud in neutral. Bearing noise. Could last a long
Have the oil changed and ONLY let them use GL-4, most the places
have this on hand, but it isn't in the pump thingie and takes
some more effort, watch, show them the manual. Its $14.95 here locally.
Go when its empty, I go Tuesday mornings at 7AM.
Do this ASAP and ask them to check for leaks. I do the diff
at the same time, they suck this out. I have them change the
engine oil, but NOT the filter. I do this myself before/after.
Castrol 20W-50 works for me.
** In the tranny and diff he's going to use 90W gear oil; didn't
respond when I mentioned GL-4. Actually, is that a name brand for
gear oil? I told him to change the motor oil also. Said he used 5w
30 for the winter.
>- rear brakes are dragging. Can't remove one drum despite repeated
>heating with a torch. May have to damage the drum to remove it (ala
I've always gotten them loose with rust eater and backing off on
the adjuster. I've even removed the two bolts holding the adjuster
in place, using a screwdriver to poke around and knock the shoes
loose from the drum. Once this is done, nothing is holding it.
(did he remove the 2 screws on the front?, seeing the above makes
me worry. I hope you misunderstood and reported incorrectly the
text above, once again, I wasn't there)
I'd tell him to use whatever method he likes, but if he damages the
drum, HE buys the new one.
** When I got there the drums were off without any breakage. The
wheel cyclinders are leaking; going to be replaced, new shoes too.
The e-nrake is actually working (not frozen!)
Taking the drum off of a car that's actually rolled in the last 10
years... that's a patsy job, yeah, tell him I said so! My current
TR6 project was last driven in 1986... and completely disassembled.
>- Other than that, not a bad car. Oh, previous frame work and repair
Depending on what, it could be nothing (most have been repaired somewhere)
or time to sell the car...
>Well, give it to me, bring it on!
Are you a member of the local Triumph club? Why not? I can usually
be bribed by a few beers to look at a "new" car. And as I don't have
any "profit" at risk, I am pretty honest. I am also honest about my
opinion of the local "experts"... The easiest path is to join the
local Triumph Club and see who arrives in a Triumph, then start buying
beer! See www.vtr.org for club pointers.
** Now that I've decided to keep this Harley, er, I mean Triumph, I'm
definitely going to jopin a Club, probably N.E. Triumphs here in MAss.
Hey, thanks for all your help. Please feel free to make additional
commnets and suggestions.
Roger G. Bolick, email@example.com 512-794-9567, FAX 345-2879