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Re: TR6 Brake Master Cylinder

To: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
Subject: Re: TR6 Brake Master Cylinder
From: Jeff Johnson <jguy@erinet.com>
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 1998 17:44:00 -0500
Cc: "'Isaac Crow'" <Isaac@avana.net>, "'TR6 List'" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
References: <903A11BB7D30D11199B800A0C95C6EDD5F2763@EXCHANGE.merak.com>
I would be reluctant to use grease in a master cylinder. I don't know how
you could clean it out of those impossible to reach areas. And, as you said
Peter, petroleum products and rubber do not co-exist well.
Now, if you could just pump some clean brake fluid thru that grease nipple ,
well, that might work better than compressed air. I just whacked my M/C on a
piece of wood and the secondary fell right out.

Jeff Johnson
'76 TR6


Peter Zaborski wrote:

> I thought it was extremely bad to use any petroleum products on brake
> parts. I thought the only stuff which should go in any of the parts is
> clean brake fluid.
>
> Comments?
>
> Peter Zaborski
> 76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
> Calgary AB Canada
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Isaac Crow [SMTP:Isaac@avana.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 1:36 PM
> > To:   Henry Frye; R. Bruce Crouter
> > Cc:   triumphs@autox.team.net
> > Subject:      Re: TR6 Brake Master Cylinder
> >
> >
> > I made a cool little M/C & caliper "popper" by brazing a grease
> > fitting to
> > the top of a bleeder screw.  Screw in it (most of the way) then pump
> > up
> > with grease...It WILL come out.  Kinda messy though.  And be sure to
> > use
> > cheap grease (it's a lot easier to clean out)
> >
> > Isaac Crow
> > '74 Spit6+
> > Winder, GA
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>
> > > To: R. Bruce Crouter <bruce.crouter@sk.sympatico.ca>
> > > Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: TR6 Brake Master Cylinder
> > > Date: Wednesday, March 11, 1998 10:12 AM
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Bruce,
> > >
> > > I have always had luck by either carefully whacking the m/c squarely
> > onto
> > a
> > > firmly anchored piece of wood, or if that fails, using air pressure
> > to
> > > extract the sticking plunger.
> > >
> > > Be careful with the air hose, though. You can build up lots of
> > pressure
> > and
> > > eject the plunger at an amazing velocity. Be sure to wrap the end of
> > the
> > > m/c with a heavy rag to catch the plunger, and by all means point
> > the m/c
> > > in a safe direction before applying air!
> > >
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > >I am trying to rebuild a leaking brake master cylinder in my 1975
> > TR6.
> > > >I have removed the tipping valve and the primary plunger but I
> > cannot
> > > >get the secondary plunger out.  My Bentley manual seems to suggest
> > it
> > > >should slide right out, mine seems firmly in place.  The secondary
> > > >plunger moves up and down but the assembly will not budge in the
> > > >cylinder.  Can anyone offer a suggestion as to how to get at it?
> > The
> > > >thought of the cost of a rebuilt cylinder makes me shake.  Thank
> > you.
> > >
> > >  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> > >  Henry Frye            E-mail - thefryes@iconn.net
> > >  TR3B   TCF1927 L   http://www.iconn.net/thefryes/
> > >  TR250  CD8096 L                  A Little Town In
> > >  TR250  CD1074 L                  Connecticut, USA







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