Lenny, Peter, Trevor, Lonn, Bill, Rob, Dave, Jon, Brian and "The List"
Wow I was pretty overwhelmed with the number of requests for this info.
This list continues to amaze me!!
What follows is Joe Simcoe's original post to me. I would add a
paraphrased comment from Phil Barnes that basically said spray the heck
out of it with silicone spray. I sprayed the bushing and the hole in the
bulkhead. The rest of my collection is in paper but the common thread is
heat those bushing's up cuz their hard as hell!!
One other item: Joe makes mention of rotating the bushing by inserting a
screwdriver into the hole. I was able to place the tip of the screw
driver on the side of the bushing and gently tap it to rotate it.
Patience really paid off!
<snip>
Marty,
If you're going to do one, I'd do them both unless the one you have is
driver side and it is in GOOD shape.
Job took me about 3 hours. I was taking my time, when I had the
accelerator shaft and stuff out I decided to go ahead and clean it all
up to look like new, and I made one mistake costing me about 20 minutes.
1) Remove accelrator shaft. I assume that this is straight forward
so I won't go into it unless you want me to. I did however at this
point add the following: Also disengage clutch and brake pedals from
respective forks by removing cotter pins and pin. Also remove brake
light switch. You don't need to do this to get the shaft out, but it
will come in handy later.
2) At this point I cleaned up everything. However Whilst doing so,
put a small pot of water to simmer on the stove. No not for tea, (that
comes later if you don't have any Ale on hand) but to heat the
bushings. I let the bushings heat for 30-45 minutes. Those buggers are
HARD.
3) With the shaft out of the car, insert the bushings into the
holes. I inserted mine from the engine compartment side, leaving the
squarer side of the bushing facing in to the engine compartment. This
is the HARDEST part. Those buggers are hard. (did I say that all
ready?) The bushing is now somewhat flexible. Bend in between two
fingers, and try to get the lip into the hole at the bottom. Getting as
much of the groove as you can seated in the hole (it won't be much, but
needs to be some) hold the bushing against the hole with one hand and
taking a small bladed, (got a couple of differnt lengths) screwdriver
and putting the blade into the groove of the bushing next to the point
at which you have managed to insert the bushing lip into the hole, push
and work a little of the bushing lip into to the hole. Continue moving
along pushing a little of the bushing lip at a time into the hole. The
thing is hard as a rock (did I say that?) so you have little danger of
poking the screwdriver through the lip, but even if you do, you really
haven't hurt anything.
On both sides I managed this, but each time ran into a point where I
the lip of the bushing left out of the hole would get into a point where
I could not reach it with the screw driver. It was either on the bottom
side or up against the bulkhead. Trick is to have most of the bushing
in by the time you reach this point. (3/4's or so). Take a Large
bladed screwdriver, long handled or a stubby, insert it into the hole
where the shaft is going to go and if it is big enough it will catch
part way through, use this to gently turn the bushing in the hole to get
the part you need to complete pushing in to a point where you can reach
it. If you have enough of the thing in, it will turn without popping
out.
If you don't it will pop out. Have a cold drink and regroup. Start
over etc etc.
This is the hardest part, but with patience will work out.
4) After the bushings are in, the trick is to get the shaft through
the bushing on the drivers side. The shaft is too long to be able to be
shovedstaight at the bushing from the drivers side tunnel. But with the
clutch and brake pedals moved up slightly by unattaching them, you can
get the accelerator shaft up to the bushing at an angle whereby with a
bit of force you can shove it through the bushing. Don't worry about
the force pushing the bushing out, remember how hard it was to get in?
It isn't going anywhere. After pushing it through 3-4 inches you will
be able to move it up and around to push straight through the bushing
and across the engine compartment to the other side.
5) Only bit of advice, put the whole thing together, but Don't
install the cotter pin on the passenger side until you have tested it
out to be certain that the pedal is where it should be. You have taken
the shaft off the linkage, and in reinstalling I found that I needed to
readjust where the linkage attached to the shaft from where it had
previously.
Let me know if this makes any sense to you. Ck out the diagram in
any of the manuals or sales catelogues prior to starting (they all are
the same).
JoeSimcoe
P.S. It really made a difference in my car, but then I didn't have ANY
to
start with. You can imagine how sloppy the accelerator was before ! !
!
<end snip>
Marty Romagni
1974 TR6 (with good bushings!)
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