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Re: FW: True beginner

To: Lars Dybwad <larsd@guru.no>
Subject: Re: FW: True beginner
From: Andrew Mace <amace@unix2.nysed.gov>
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1998 12:22:38 -0400 (EDT)
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
On Wed, 1 Jul 1998, Lars Dybwad wrote:

> 
> > Hey, I'm an absolute beginner and know very little about the Triumph
> > Spitfire cars. I guess you veteran owners are tired of people like me,
> > but I can tell you I really love the car and I'm currently planning to
> > get one.

Your interest is the primary factor here. As for "tired of people like 
me" -- don't worry about it. Even us "seasoned veterans" started somewhere!

> > I have a firm offer on a 1966 Triumph Spitfire, but it's supposedly
> > not in very good condition (it runs, though)...

> > [Is it] practically possible for me to learn by myself and the Triumph
> > community enough to fix up this car?

Absolutely. If you have any mechanical ability and even the most basic of 
hand tools, you're most of the way there. Currently, I'd recommend the 
following:

1. stay with the list, of course!
2. try to find a book on basic automobile systems and their repair
3. once you have the car, purchase a factory workshop manual and/or 
another workshop manual devoted to the Spitfire (Bentley, for example, is 
pretty much a reprint of the factory book; Haynes, Autobook, etc., are 
all useful as well)
4. join a local and/or "national" club devoted to Triumphs or perhaps 
specifically to the Spitfire

> > And what are the major points to
> > consider when buying a car like the 66 Spitfire?

If you're uncomfortable with your own mechanical ability, the best thing 
to do is to take with you someone who knows the cars well. Very 
basically, you're looking for major rust that affects the structural 
integrity of the car. Spitfires remain "driveable" despite extensive 
rust, but some body rust can make the car unsafe to drive, even if the 
chassis frame appears intact. For example, the radius arms that locate 
the rear half-axles mount to the body, not the frame. This can be an area 
where rust could prove fatal. And, although these cars often were not 
assembled when new with the precision of more modern cars, body panels 
should line up reasonably well, etc.

Otherwise, a potential checklist could be very long. In short, see if the 
car runs, drives, shifts, steers and stops well. Check that all or most 
of the electrical items function. Watch for excessive or constant smoke 
from the tailpipe, and check that various fluids are the color and 
consistency they should be. For example, oil should not have mixed in 
with coolant, nor coolant with oil. Either indicates potentially serious 
engine problems (head gasket blown, cracked block, etc.) 

Needless to say, there is much more to it. There is a fair amount of 
"buyer's guide" information at the VTR web site <www.vtr.org>; again, 
having someone with you who knows cars is a real help (more so if they 
know Triumphs).

Good luck, and let us know if/when you get the car.

--Andy

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* Andrew Mace, President and                *
*   10/Herald/Vitesse (Sports 6) Consultant *
* Vintage Triumph Register                  *
* amace@unix2.nysed.gov                     *
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