On Fri, 14 Aug 1998 drew@pixar.com wrote:
> and exhaust guides are 5/16" in diameter. Seven of the metal tube inserts
> for the push rods look like they're made of brass and have little grooves
> or serrations running their length. The other tube looks to be a replace-
> ment and is made of aluminum. The head was stripped when I got it but
> it looks like it uses 2 valve springs on both the intakes and the exhausts.
Can't help ya too much, but worn valve guides can be "rejuvenated" by
running a tap down through the guide then reaming it out to fit the
valves. Such a practice is only a "band-aid" fix, as it enlarges some of
the valve guide in order to shrink the rest.
I suspect that the guides are bronze; but I don't know how you could test.
You should be able to replace the guides without too much fuss (machine
shop should have no troubles).
> The part number on the distributor is 40814A and the model number is
> DM2. I checked Moss's catalog and they don't mention this part number
> but they do have a model DM2P4 listed. Another strange thing is that
> the wires on the distributor cap come out more or less parallel to the
> axis of the vacuum advance adjusting screw. This is 90 degrees out from
> the way my TR3's wires are. Any thoughts on what distributor I have?
> I seem to recall someone mentioning that the distributor (or at least
> the weights) need to be changed when using a larger cylinder bore. Is
> this true or am I imagining things again?
There is a good chance that the distributor drive gear was misaligned when
last installed in the engine. So long as the spark plugs make spark at
the right time, and in the right order, it won't matter which way the cap
lines up.
If you rebuild the engine it will be easy to re-arrange the distributor so
that it points in the "right" direction. Dunno bout the weights or #s
though.
-Malcolm
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