Dan, John, et al,
Yes, at high idle (1500 rpm) the voltage should be hovering between 13.2
and 14.5. Dan's right, at 12.8, you'll soon have a dead battery.
>
> In a message dated 98-10-15 15:32:38 EDT, Jjcousins@ra.rockwell.com writes:
>
> > So, I ordered and replaced the voltage regulator. I had a 3 wire one and
> > received a new 4 wire one. I read your page on the explanation of the
> > differences. That was today - I hooked up the regulator last night and
> > left the white wire disconnected. This seems OK to me according to your
> > explanation.
As I wrote to John, the use of the two, three, or four wire regulator
will depend upon the type of diode pack. If the two larger alternator
terminals are connected electrically, a simple two wire (black, yellow),
machine sensing regulator will do the job. If the two larger spade
connectors ("B", "+", or "S") are electrically isolated, the use of a
three or four wire regulator is typical since it will need to regulate
the voltage being supplied to the harness. I've never tried to use a two
wire regulator on the latter type of diode pack. I'll need to get a plug
and schematic in front of me to try to make that call.
> >
> > I haven't taken the car for long high speed runs yet but I'm only getting
> > 12.8 volts across the battery leads. Is this too low?
> >
> > My stereo powers up fine and the car still runs fine - the dash lights
> > MAYBE seem dim, but that's hard to tell - I was used to the 15-18 volts
> > before!
> >
> > Also, I have a Crane - Allison ignition system.
> >
> > Also, WHAT IS THE DRIVE RESISTOR for???????? (The thing that is mounted in
> > the engine compartment somewhere) I now understand the ballast resistor
> > thanks to you two - but what does the drive resistor do? I don't seem to
> > have one anymore!
>
> John,
>
> At what rpm are you measuring the battery voltage? It needs to be at least
> 1500 to get the alternator up to speed enough to provide a charging voltage.
> In theory, the alternator should produce 14.6 volts, but they will vary around
> that value a little bit in practice. If you are only getting 12.8, you will
> soon have a dead battery.
>
> I'll let Charlie answer any concerns about the internal modifications, as he
> is the expert in that area. BTW, you had his address incorrect, with a V in
> front of it. I have corrected it and copied the entire content of your post
> for him here.
>
> The drive resister is part of the electronic ignition system that came with
> the car when new. Since your system has been replaced with the Allison/Crane,
> you don't need it any more. I'm not exactly sure of its function, but is has
> to do, I believe, with limiting the power to the factory electronic ignition.
> That's something I need to look into. Charlie, maybe you can answer us both on
> this?
>
Yes, it was part of the original Lucas electronic igniton. It was
mounted externally, away from the rest of the igniton electronics, as a
way to islolate the heat it generated. I think they mounted it behind
the alternator to help cool it with air generated from both the
alternator fan and the radiator fan. Just a guess, mind you. And, no you
don't need it if you've replaced (and who of us hasn't) the Lucas unit.
Charlie
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