A very common problem on different Lotus automobiles (old and new models
including the new Elise) that uses a red hose for the clutch fluid, it
is known as the "red hose syndrome". It is more common in rear engined
cars where the engine bay heat softens the hose and where there is a
long length of hose being used( front clutch pedals t0 rear of car. The
problem is also much worse in 90 degree and above temperatures which
really does havoc on the hose. Many Lotus Turbo Esprits experience this
problem of not having a clutch or it engaging right at the floor and the
common fix is using steel braided hose as a replacement. In fact Dave
Bean engineering sells a "red hose kit" for Lotus models. The clutch
hydraulic system on the Turbo Esprit is very close to that of the TR7.
Lenny Seidman
Mike Mason wrote:
>
> I spent a frustrating six months working with the clutch on my '73. I
> replaced everything....twice. There was absolutely no play in the linkage
> anywhere, and the pedal still engaged right at the floor.
>
> I was in the local LBC garage the other day and he said, "Step on the
> clutch for a moment." with his head under the bonnet. Seems the plastic
> lines sold by some of the parts places actually expand, taking away part
> of your peddle travel. He said they had scratched their heads for days
> over a TR7 that just couldn't get any clutch.
>
> He says you can feel the line pulse when you push in the peddle and
> offered to custom make me one that would not expand.
>
> I haven't checked it out, but I was wondering if anyone else has noticed
> this? I assumed, since I replaced the hose, that it could not be a
> problem. So never checked. DUH!!!! If so, I will not be happy with
> whomever sold me that plastic hose and caused me to take the tranny out
> TWICE! :-(
>
> Let me know what happens.
>
> Michael....St. Louis, or thereabouts
>
> On Sun, 22 Nov 1998, Pete & Aprille Chadwell wrote:
>
> >
> > Just got done replacing the clutch in the TR6. Thank you all for the
> > suggestions on the bushings, etc. I solved the fork/pin issue by having a
> > local machinist make up a new pin, and that I'm sure will work perfectly.
> > The bushings for the cross-shaft came from TRF and were twice the width of
> > the old ones that came out, so I just used one per side.
> >
> > The clutch works fine and all, except that it "grabs" way down close to the
> > floor. I mean WAY DOWN. Incidentally, I rebuilt the clutch master and
> > slave, so the hydraulics are in reasonably good condition. I also repaired
> > the stretched hole in the yoke on the master cylinder pushrod, so I've
> > eliminated quite a bit of lost motion in the entire linkage. (New sleeve,
> > new fork pins, new shaft, new bushings, etc.)
> >
> > Has anyone else remedied this characteristic by making modifications to the
> > pushrods on either the slave or master cylinder? Would fabricating an
> > adjustable-length pushrod for the slave allow you to adjust this? Or would
> > any such modification simply be compensated back out by the
> > "self-adjusting" slave cylinder? Any suggestions on how to improve this?
> > I'd sure like to see the clutch grabbing right about half-way through the
> > pedal's travel.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Pete Chadwell
> > 1973 TR6
> >
> >
> >
> >
--
Lenny Seidman
Elkins Park, Pennsylvania, USA
email: lseidman@erols.com
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