Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Is there a specific tool to use on the drain plug (about 3" round with square
> notches on the outer edge) on the A type OD? I've tried channel locks and
> tried tapping the edge with a punch and hammer but couldn't get it to move. I
> didn't want to scar it up too much so I left it for the time being. It look
> like it could be brass or some other soft metal. Any tricks or suggestions or
> should I just try a better angle and keep hammering.
> 71TR6 CC57365
> 71TR6 CC65446
> ____________________Reply Separator____________________
> Subject: O/D answers: thanx
> Author: Alan Myers <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Date: 02/22/1999 11:41 PM
> Just wanted to say thanx to several listers who provided answers to my
> question about the diff. between O/D mainshafts and non-O/D mainshafts.
> Especially Ed Woods who pointed out that O/D mainshafts are not threaded
> at the tail end (where non-O/D unit would be to connect to the
> driveshaft) and that there is no scroll gear to drive the speedo on the
> O/D model.
> All I can say is "duh"!
> So this evening I did another test fit after confirming the shaft in my
> gearbox was in fact O/D compatible (my apologies to the un-named
> vendor). I didn't want to force anything and do any damage! Turns out
> loosening the speedo take-off and turning the drive shaft got everything
> to line up & slip into place. So now all I gotta do is clean up and
> rebuild the O/D itself. Glad I did the test, because the 4 shorter studs
> that hold the unit to the gearbox adaptor are way too short & will need
> to be replaced.
> I also learned that there were at least two distinct A-type O/D units
> used: early (TR3 & 4) and late (4A & early 6). The one I picked up is an
> early model, which means there are two springs in the accumulator pump:
> one monstrous outer one, the other smaller, inside. The accumulator
> piston itself is 1-3/4" in diameter. The later model has a 1-1/8"
> piston. The later style has a single spring and a sleeve or tube.
> The earlier O/D's also had an exposed operating lever and solenoid. On
> later ones this was enclosed in a box.
> There are also minor differences in the attachement of the strainer at
> the bottom oil pump.
> This is all kinda academic, except I notice in the factory manual that
> the downshift points are musch higher on the later O/D. With the earlier
> you're warned against over-revving if you are in O/D at more than 3500
> rpm and disengage O/D into 3rd or 2nd. The later model can handle up to
> 4500 rpm according to the manual.
> Alan Myers
> San Jose, Calif.
> '62 TR4 CT17602L (& .6 "O")
When working on my J type OD I ran across the same type plugs.A mechanic
friend lent me a tool that is made for setting up older ford rears.It is
a sissors kind of thing with studs on the ends of the "blades".It worked
perfect,and could be used equally on both size plugs.I don`t know the
cost but it is Snap On # A176