From: Gernot Vonhoegen <gernot.vonhoegen@stir.ac.uk>
> actually, now you are saying it I seem to remember that as well, the valves
>are fitted by having two bits of the surrounding metal presse over them.
>I'll check closer when I get to remove my pump from the TR6.
<
Gernot,
Yes, that is exactly it! I do not know when the pump on my 4A was replaced,
but it was pertty early in its life. As I said, the valves were not retained
by a spring clip, but placed in the recessed holes and crimped in place
by the edge of the hole being impacted and crimped inward.
Getting those out is quite difficult. You have to be prepared to replace
the pump unit. I used a small "dremel" rotary file and removed the crimp.
The valve still did not drop out and had to be pried out. Here is one possible
source of damage.
While the crimp was removed, the edge of the recessed hole was still deformed
enough so that the new valve did not drop into place. I tried to open it up
a little, but that did not work, and I ruined the valves when driving them
in place. I got them in, but they must have warped a little and they did
not seal.
The cost of one of the reproduction pumps is close to the cost of the "rebuild"
kit. So, as I said in my last message, I bought one of the repro pumps
and unbolted the top half, moved the diaphragm to the old pump lower half, and
then put the new top on the old bottom. This way I preserved the
finger-actuated
pump. I also used the old sedimentation glass as the old was deeper than the
new.
I used the new gasket for the old glass. I had to use the old wire
retainer since the old glass was longer than the new.
The car is not yet on the road, so I have not put it to the acid test, but
I tested it off the engine, and it seemed to pump fine!
You can see the pump in one of the last photos about the restoration
of CTC733336L on my web site. Http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/arhodes
-Tony
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