Well, as they say, leave well enough alone.....
I took the '70 TR6 out tonight to see how it was running
after some changes I did (will get to this). Started up
great, ran well for about 7 miles and then as I was cruising
along at 70 mph on the highway it lost all power and backfired
with a puff of black smoke. The odometer droped like a
lead wait and all engine power was lost. Costed off to the
side of the road, shut of the ignition, popped the bonnet
and checked around. Couldn't find anything obvious so got
back in and it fired right back up. Drove another 5 miles on
the highway and it did the same thing. Pulled over, turned of
ignition, started it back up and it fired right up. Drove
another 2 miles to get of the highway and proceeded home on
a secondary road at 45-50 mph. Some thing happened half
way home.
Thought that the retard line, which I had plugged up, might
be building preasure and escaping around the plug (I know this
doesn't make sence for the retard line, but will explain) so
I pulled the line and replugged it at the carb (bottom rear carb).
got home fine the rest of the way. Checked things over again and
replugged the elbo connection at the bottom of rear carb with a
better fitting screw. Took the 6 back out and drove fine for
about 10 miles and went to turn around to head home and it
hesitated, back fired but didn't stall out. Drove home and about
half way home, you guessed it, stalled out with a single back
fire. Started immediately up, as always and got home fine. Doesn't
seem to want to run hard, but nothing real noticable.
Here is what I have done since last weekend when I drove 300+ miles
to the Hellertown show with no problems and the 6 ran beautifully:
1. Replaced the clamping plate on the distributor since it was
extremly bent and was not holding the timing well.
2. Decided to go back to hooking up the retard line which had been
plugged. Ran the smallest rubber vacum hose (not the plastic type) I
could buy from the rear carb to the retard at the dizzy.
3. Reset timing to 4 degrees BTDC with retard off and after hooking
up line got a 4 degrees ATDC reading. Fine.
4. Tried the car and it ran like a horses ass. Back fired, sputtered,
etc.
Limped home and immediately plugged the retard line at the dizzy
connection
(hence early reference to plugging at carb). Ran it around the block
twice and all was fine.
Now were back to what happened this evening. I am running the ignitor
electronic system under the diizzy cap, which has been great, so no
condensor involved.
Could there be a problem with my advance line colapsing after running
for
a period of time? Why is the odometer sutting down, thus indicating the
distributor/engine has cut out.....
The Bowie show is this weekend and want to be comfortable driving down
especially since the drive is basically all "speed racer" on the
highways.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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