It may be the oil pump, but I would suspect that mains and rod bearings are
worn. These are classic symptoms. You can drop the sump and take off a
bearing cap to inspect the condition of bearings and journals. You can
easily replace the connecxting rod bearings from below without removing the
engine, and some people maintain that you can replace mains by sliding the
the top bearing shell out from under the crank and sliding in the new shell,
but I've never done this and I don't think I ever woould because of the
possibility of getting dirt between the bearing shell and the block. The
good news is that the oil pressure will come up a little if you just replace
the rod bearings.
When buying an LBC, ALWAYS check oil pressure after the car has totally
From: SpeedSites@aol.com <SpeedSites@aol.com>
To: firstname.lastname@example.org <email@example.com>
Date: Sunday, August 01, 1999 11:00 PM
Subject: Oil pressure Blues
>Well, the new TR had to let me know that it was alive and British. Perhaps
>someone will recognize these symptoms:
>Upon starting, oil pressure is about 70-80 lbs.
>Running about 15-20 mins drops to about 50.
>Running another 10 mins or more drops to 20!
>All figures are at about 3000 rpm. At idle, pressure is avg of 20-40 when
>warm. Temp usually maxes at about 1/2.
>Driving conditions: warm LA weather (about 85 deg).
>Compression is good in all cyls (110-120) except #5, which is at about 65
>lbs. Previous owner claims entire engine was rebuilt about 12k ago, and
>was done again since then due to faulty gasket (says that a "late 1969"
>gasket was used, then when leaking was replaced by an "early 69" gasket).
>Am I looking at an oil pump rebuild, or worse? The guage seems to work, at
>least it will run the range up to 90 lbs. Sometimes the drop in pressure
>takes longer than others.
>Any thoughts appreciated. Feel free to reply off-list, if this question is
>Thanks a million-
>57 Austin Healey