Day.John@fin.gc.ca wrote:
> There I go again - writing more from past experience than from what was
> actually being talked about!
>
> When I changed a busted exhaust valve a couple years ago on the TR6, I
> refused to remove the head, and instead used a hand tool to compress the
> spring (there being 2 on the later TR6 exhaust, thank goodness!). This I
> borrowed from the local Jag/LBC garage, and operated with a faucet-like
> tensioner once clamped on. To keep the valve from dropping down inside the
> chamber, I removed the plug and inserted a 3/8 socket extension. To keep the
> valve in place while I re-installed the collets (THAT's the name of those
> funny little things!), I used a line of sewing thread tied around the notch
> of the valve, and gained tension by tying it off to the hood latch, which
> was then directly overhead. I used an extension magnet to help place the
> collets in position; once they were in properly, I eased off on the spring
> compressor until all was good as new. I then had to remove the sewing thread
> with an x-acto knife, which I did completely. Any residual thread would
> either burn up or come out in the next oil change anyhow. And all that
> without the use of compressed air in the cylinder (but it was a great
> argument to buy one, for a while!). Cheers, JD
Next time you should try the rope trick. It's so easy you'll kick yourself for
not
doing it before.
Cheers!
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Power British Check out Power British
1242 E. Ridge Pike on the 'net!
Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
(610) 270-0505 http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Power British Performance Parts, Inc.
> [SMTP:britcars@powerbritish.com]
> Sent: September 16, 1999 12:44 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: Valve Spring/Key Removal
>
> Day.John@fin.gc.ca wrote:
>
> > Also be sure to cover the oil journals of the valve head, too -
> otherwise
> > Day's Rule (formerly Murphy's Law) says there's a good chance the
> keeper
> > will try to take the roundabout route to the sump!:-) Any opening
> acts like
> > a magnet for a little part like that!
> >
> > Cheers, JD
>
> Bob makes note of using a C-clamp type valve spring compressor. To
> use this, the head
> must already be off the car - but you're point is certainly valid if
> you are trying to
> change springs with the head on the car.
>
> One of the best techniques I've found to change springs with the
> head in place is to
> use a variation on the 'rope-trick-for-cylinder-head-removal' but
> simply leave the
> cyl. head nuts as is in place and rely on the compressed rope to
> keep the valve from
> dropping - much easier than trying to use air pressure to hold the
> valve.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Power British Check out Power British
> 1242 E. Ridge Pike on the 'net!
> Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
> (610) 270-0505
> http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Power British Performance Parts, Inc.
> > [SMTP:britcars@powerbritish.com]
> > Sent: September 16, 1999 11:45 AM
> > To: Triumphs
> > Subject: Re: Valve Spring/Key Removal
> >
> > Robert Van and Ann Cross wrote:
> >
> > > Listers,
> > > This may sound like a rookie question by I need your
> assistance.
> > I've got a
> > > spare TR4 cylinder head that I want to rebuild and use.
> I
> > purchased the "C
> > > Type valve lifter & Spring Compressor" from JC Whintey.
> My
> > problem is, I
> > > can't get the springs to compress in order to remove the
> spring
> > key. I
> > > think I'm using the tool correctly (jaws over the
> collar, ratchet
> > > handle/shaft placed against the valve head), but I'm
> having little
> > success.
> > > When I squeeze the handle, the "C type" portion of the
> tool must
> > be giving
> > > since the collar and springs aren't compressing.
> What's the
> > secret?
> > > Thanks in advance.
> > > Bob Van
> > > 1960 TR3A
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > After so many years, the keepers tend to stick. That's a
> good thing
> > since you don't
> > want them to bounce out too easily. Put your valve spring
> > compressor on the valve and
> > tighten it until the 'C' bends slightly. Cover the valve
> spring end
> > of the compressor
> > with a rag and strike the head of the valve/tool sharply
> with a
> > rubber or plastic
> > mallet. Usually the valve retainer will give right away
> and the
> > keepers will be still
> > in place but now loose. If one should be stubborn, give
> another
> > crank on the
> > compressor, but watch out as usually the keepers tend to
> fly if
> > cranked too much. The
> > rag should catch them, but wear safety goggles anyway.
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6
> '79 Spit
> >
> >
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Power British Check out Power
> British
> > 1242 E. Ridge Pike on the
> 'net!
> > Plymouth Meeting, PA 19462
> > (610) 270-0505
> > http://www.powerbritish.com/~britcars
> >
> >
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
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