>Yesterday I went to replace my leaking differential with one that's had its
>seals replaced. I suspected I'd need new diff mounts, since I'd heard the
>dreaded "clunk". Here's what I found:
>The mounts were all in great shape. There was, however, a crack completely
>through the braket through which the right-hand, front mounting stud goes.
>I know TRF sells prefabbed plates to reinforce the brackets. However, when
>I called them, they said the plates were not intended to repair the
>bracket, and boxed in the bracket from the sides. Further, they said that
>I should *not* weld a repair plate over the crack, because it would
>adversely affect the geometry. What do you all think? If I put a repair
>plate on the left-hand side as well, I'd think that would even out the
>geometry.
>
>Would it be sufficient to MIG weld the crack from the underside, and grind
>it down smooth? The upper end of the diff mounting stud appears to still be
>firmly attached to the frame.
>---
>Ted Stevens stevens@erols.com
>74 TR6 Gaithersburg, MD
Ted,
I had the same problem with my 74 TR6 when I bought it two years
ago. I couldn't figure any way around using repair plates like
you describe. I had a local welding outfit cut 4 plates, one for
each mount. I got them to weld in the front two where I had cracks
and I simply bolted them in under the polyurethane diff mounts on
the rear brackets to even things out. I also had the shop cut the
boxing-in plates for the brackets, but without taking some things
off the car like the gas tank, they were reluctant to try to get the
outside plates welded in (or was it the inside?). Anyway, my brackets
are partially blocked and each has a 3/16 inch repair plate between
the bracket and the diff mounts. I have never detected any problem
with this setup, but I did recently have a rear hub bearing go bad.
I doubt that there is any connection, but I'm not positive. I'd be
interested to hear what others have to say about this.
Tim
--
Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6
|