Robert,
Thanks for the reply. I did work through the thrust washer issue, and did
decide that 0.0075 inches is fine. I'm within specs, and have heard that
less is better, but too little can be bad too. I had also heard of 0.0025"
washers, but searching and inquiring turned up that they just don't seem to
exist anymore.
I'm currently onto bigger things. The engine is together, and I just
finished aligning all the body panels on the tub -- a long day, but it sure
looks great. I'm block sanding now, and will paint it the weekend after New
Years -- original Pimento Red.
After this, I'll be placing the engine back into the '6.
Thanks again.
Eric
CF52678U (+O)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@ISIS.MIT.EDU>
To: <econrad@teal.csn.net>
Cc: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2000 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: TR6 Engine Reassembly
>
> Hi Eric,
>
> I see that at least one reply to your message mentioned my name, so I
> figured I'd chime in. Granted, I'm probablt three weeks too late, but
> better late then never.
>
> Regarding end-float - it's better to be be a little "tight" than too
loose.
> I'd mix and match a pair of .005 over thrust washers with a pair of STD
> TW's and hope that I was in the .006 range. As you may know, the
catalogues
> list a .0025 over thrust washer, but nobody has been able to sell them for
> a long time.
>
> Frankly, .0075 os probably okay.
>
> If you are totally neurotic about getting a desired end-float, it is
> possible to _carefully_ remove some material from the thrust washer(s)
> using a piece of extremely fine wet-or-dry sandpaper and _oil_ on a piece
> of glass to get a fine, even "cut". But this sort of procedure represents
> the extreme.
>
> Others may comment about "pinning" the TW's. This is a good idea, but only
> if you really crank the engine a lot and run at very high RPM's.
Otherwise,
> it's overkill.
>
> But otherwise, I'd say that .0075 was most likely OK.
>
> Regarding the "positioning" of the rods, don't worry about it. If your
> crank was "cut" properly, the radius transition to the journal surface
> should provide the necessary control that you are looking for. Also note
> that the sides of the rods are machined smooth - this is allow them to run
> up to the "webs" without causing any problems.
>
> Finally, regarding Loctite on the main journals, for a street motor
> application, you probably do not need Loctite. If you run the motor at
very
> high RPM's, then you might want to consider it. You also mentioned
> lock-washers. These were only used on TR250's and very early TR6. All TR6
> motors after the transition used a slightly shorter main cap bolt and no
> lock washer. I do not have a dimension for you, but I know this to be the
> case and I also read something recently about this... I think there might
> have been a factory technical bulletin on this subject. That being said,
> I've never seen a TR6 motor with the lock washers on the main journal cap
> bolts. To get the proper torque, you should lightly oil the bolts when you
> insert them, this will assure a valid torque setting to the bolts.
>
> Good Luck!
> rml
> TR6's
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