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Re: How to keep TR4A engine turning

Subject: Re: How to keep TR4A engine turning
From: Randall <randallyoung@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2001 14:55:39 -0700
Cc: Triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <Pine.GSO.4.10.10109061427550.1838-100000@konichiwa.cc.colum bia.edu>
> Of course I now suspect that I need to replace the front and rear main
> bearings.  Which leads me to a question ....
> 
> -Can these bearings be replaced with the crank in the block and the block
> in the car?  Or must one remove the crank to replace all threee main
> bearings?

It's doable, I've done it several times.  Have the other mains in place
as you do each one, so the crank never hangs on the front seal,
otherwise it will leak like a sieve afterwards (BTDT).  The front plate
gasket will tear when you take out the sealing block, replace it with
some sort of "form a gasket".  (I like the red 'high temp' silicone
here, but if you use it, be sure to clean off any beads that might form
strings in the crankcase.)  Usually, I've been able to wiggle the caps
off with my fingers, but last time I made a 'puller' from some 3/4" bar
stock and a few bolts.  I like to flatten one of the old lower inserts
and use it as a drift to start the upper inserts out, once they're out
by 3/4" or so, you can pinch them against the crank, and rotate the
crank to roll them out (and then again to roll the new ones into
place).  I've read of using a bent cotter pin in an oil hole, instead.

Fred, you should know by now that _all_ car repairs are temporary, just
some are more temporary than others.  Duct tape and baling wire won't
win any concours awards, but sometimes they're appropriate.  And BTW, it
was the head that I "did right" that gave me trouble at VTR.  The short
block (which has been 'rebuilt' in the car several times, and even worse
things that I won't discuss) is still holding up just fine !

Randall

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