Bill, I have tried both, but under different circumstances. The first one I
put in was the leather type from VB, and it leaked but to be honest I
believe it was because I failed to clean up the pinion flange OD prior to
installation (it looked ok at first but upon further inspection was slightly
rough and had a tiny groove where the old seal made contact). Second time I
replaced with a CR rubber seal as well as cleaned up the flange with some
emery cloth and that did the trick. But I believe that the outer diameter
of the metal carrier that contains the seal had a slightly larger OD than
the ID of the diff case. Of course I didnt know this before I installed the
thing. Since the metal carrier cross section looks like |________| it went
in more or less ok since the open end goes in first. But when the face of
the seal starts to get closer to being flush with the case, it will not go
any more and winds up sticking out a bit. Stop right there. I went a
little further (ie whacked it a bit harder) and the face started to distort
and buckle before I realized what the problem was. But it still seems to
work ok.
The upshot is I'd be willing to bet that either seal will work, although I
honestly dont know why the engineers originally went to leather in the first
place. The main thing is that the surface of the pinion flange that
contacts the seal needs to be smooth. You should be able to feel with a
fingernail. If you cant eliminate the wear groove, then maybe you can try
plan B. Someone also mentioned that if you position the seal so that it
contacts the flange at a different place, it will now wear a new groove than
before, but IMO if you get the flange to clean up without removing too much
metal it shouldnt really matter where the seal contacts the shaft.
John Lumia - 1976 TR6
Bill Williams wrote>>>>>>>>>>>>>
For those of you that have replaced your pinion oil seal, what is your
current recommendation between the two types?
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