Hi Peter,
Many of us have had the same symptoms due the clutch not fully releasing
when the clutch pedal is pressed. If there are no leaks in the clutch
hydraulic system, the problem is usually due to slack around the clevis
pin - master cylinder push rod joint. The easiest test is to measure the
travel of the pin in the slave cylinder - clutch operating arm connection.
When the pedal is moved from all the way out to as far in as it will go,
that pin on the slave cylinder push rod should move at least 1/2 inch and
preferably 5/8 inch. If the motion is less than 1/2 inch, look around the
pedal connection. You might also check for slop in the pedal indicating
that the pedal bushes need replacement.
Nelson Riedel
Granville, Ohio
'68TR250, '76TR6, '70TR6 (project)
----- Original Message -----
From: "WILSON Peter ( SA )" <peter.wilson@tenix.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 9:19 PM
Subject: Gear shifting difficulty with TR6
> Fellow listers,
>
> My TR6 has recently become very difficult to get into gear from
standstill,
> and is also baulky between gears, requiring more than usual force. The
> problem has become obvious over the last month or so, and is noticeable
when
> cold, becoming much worse as the transmission heats up during stop/start
> city driving. Has anyone had this problem with their 'six, and what was
the
> cause?
>
> I can think of a couple of possibilities:
> a) clutch plate oily or "furry" and not releasing properly (although there
> is no symptom of clutch drag)
> b) rapid synchro wear-out(?)
> c) the dreaded thrust washer drop-out
>
> Any thoughts or prior experience gratefully accepted.
>
>
> Peter Wilson
> Adelaide, South Australia
> 1969 ex-US TR6
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