Joe,
It's your carb. Specifically the o-rings in the air valve in the carbs that
are leaky. You can replace the o-rings...at least I can on my 1971 ZS 175
CD-2 carbs.
The o-ring size is 2-010, call your local gasket/o-rings/seals place or you
can call mine (Rocket Seals in Denver 303-777-7024...NFI) and tell them you
want that size in Viton which is a oil-resistant compound of some sort and
lasts a little longer than plain rubber. To get the old o-ring out take a
long skinny punch (I've even used a pencil but they WILL splinter and jab
you in the hand...not that I'VE ever done that) and drive the needle
adjusting screw out the top of the air valve (of course you've removed the
needle first). There's a star washer that holds the adjusting needle screw
in place so make sure you cover the top of the air valve with a rag or
you'll be chasing that star washer around the garage floor. Put the new
o-ring on and reverse instructions (as Bentley says). You can use your
punch to make the star washer go back in and sit down flat on the needle
adjusting screw. Be gentle but make sure the adjusting needle valve and
star washer are flush to the bottom of the air valve.
Good Luck. It's worth it to have the oil stay in there....makes for more
consistent acceleration instead of wondering...Now what?
Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Donovan" <jxdonovan@attbi.com>
To: "[TRIUMPH] Mailing List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2002 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: Dash Pot Oil
> -Got my own question in response to Brian's suggestion to use 40W. I
use
> Marvel Mystery oil. One of my carbs loses the oil in about a day. Is
> this a problem with the carb or the oil?
>
> Thx,
>
> Joe Donovan
> '73 TR-6
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