> Here is a list of my symptoms.
> Center switch cluster nothing there works. The raido works, the lighter
> works. Fans works. Cant test the AC cause the belt is off.
>
> Here is some more. Headlight switch. Does nothing. not even
> turning on the lights. Also no dash lights
> 4 ways do nothing
> rear defoger does nothing.
Chris, you've pretty clearly got multiple problems here. Get the Haynes,
also a cheap DVM and some clip leads. Pick one thing that doesn't work, and
start chasing down why.
According to my Haynes the master lighting switch gets it's power from a
splice, that is fed from the union in the hot battery cable. Pick somewhere
that is relatively easy to access (back of the switch would be ideal, but I
don't know how hard that is to get to on a TR7) and check that you have 12v
there with the switch on. (Checking with the switch off may give you a
false indication.) If you find power, move to the other side of the switch
and check again. If you don't, move towards the battery and check again.
The idea is to "divide and conquer"; keep dividing the circuit into the part
that works, and the part that doesn't work, until you find where the
boundary between the two is. Fix that problem, whatever it is, and retest.
Repeat until the headlights work. Trust nothing : wires, connections, fuses
etc. that look fine may well not be.
One thing that is probably worth checking early in the game : is the battery
ground post securely connected to the body and engine. Again I'm not sure
about the TR7, but the TR6 and Stag actually had a two-headed ground cable
that bolted to both the engine and body. If it's cut, disconnected, or even
just corroded internally; it can cause some weird problems. Earlier TRs had
a separate jumper between the engine and body, that frequently gets left out
after putting the engine back in.
> Dash cluster. Everything works but the tach pegs all the way
> over. This I find unusal.
Likely a bad tach. Start haunting eBay for another one.
> Alternator dead I figure 3 years of outside storage killed it on
> list to take apart and check out.
>
> Could this be a voltage regulator issue?
Could be ... but the regulator is inside the alternator (or should be) and
is usually not serviced separately. I'm not sure about the TR7 alternator,
but some alternators require the current through the ignition lamp to get
started. If your ignition lamp doesn't come on when you first turn the key
on, you might check it out first.
> Fuses all look good.
Appearances can definitely be deceiving! Use the meter to check 'em
in-circuit, probe first one side and then the other of the fuse block. I've
seen more than a few fuses that looked just fine, but would not conduct
current.
BTW, you probably know all about this ... but the fuse ratings are given in
the Lucas method. If you try to use American replacements, they need to
have about 1/2 the current rating given in the Haynes. IOW, where the
Haynes says to use a 35 amp fuse, use an AGC 20 (or a Lucas 35).
> Going to buy a
> haynes manuel on the way home tommorow for some help here on
> this.
If you can't find one for some reason (perhaps your corner Pep Boys doesn't
carry manuals for 25 year old furrin cars), let me know. I've got one, and
I could probably be persuaded to scan the wiring diagram and email it to
you.
Randall
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