> Trunion to lower wishbone: tighten to 30ftlb then back off to 5ftlb then
> back off again for cotter pin & nut
> (as per http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/TR/Net_TR4suspension.htm
While I hesitate to contradict TeriAnn (or whoever she was quoting), I have
to say that the procedure given in the TR2/3 workshop manual works for me
(paraphrased) :
1) tighten both nuts evenly until the joint is "solid" (ie cannot be moved
by hand).
2) back both nuts off by 1.5-2 flats (so cotter pin holes line up), secure
with cotter pin.
3) Rap on the arms alternately with a brass hammer, to move the washers back
out against the nuts.
4) Check for freedom of movement through the entire range, correct as
necessary.
This is all done with the spring, pan, bump stop and shock not yet
installed. However, IMO it's a good idea to install the rest of the
steering so the whole thing can be checked for freedom. HVDA reported
finding a bunch of bent vertical links (causing binding) a few years back.
Last time I bought trunnions, they were supplied without the cotter pin
holes, and a note to use Nyloc nuts. The nyloc nuts will screw up the
torque readings ...
> Trunion to vertical link:
Screw trunnion home, then back off approx 1 turn until pin is properly
aligned.
> Trunion to ball joint:
I assume you mean vertical link to ball joint, 55-65 ft lb
> Ball joint to upper wishbone:
Can't find this one, but 55-65 should do fine.
> Upper wishbone to frame (thru bushings):
26-40 ft lb
Randall
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