Jeff,
I have just bolted my TR3 tub to its frame and went through a long iterative
process to determine the best number of shims at each point. Not sure about the
TR4 but the TR3 has four main mounting points, just inside the inner sills.
To get the door fit reasonable I found it helpful to stand at the rear of the
car and imagine shimming such that the tub twists through the middle. In other
words shimming the front right and rear left gives the same effect.
I had to do this as there was not enough play in the door hinges' mounting nuts
to get the top and bottom of the door to line up at the B post.
As for the gap around the rear of the door, there was some adjustment to be had
by shimming the rearmost mounting points (stand at the side, and imagine the
body being lower at the centre and higher at the ends, or vice versa), but
hardly any.
Between the two issues, I had to go back and forth a number of times. (For the
door gaps, you may end up having to go back to the four main mounting points
and lower or raise all of them the same amount.)
And if you think this description was confusing, just wait till you try it in
real life.
Jim Wallace
TR3a 2TS81417L built 1960 titled 1962
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Jeff Tedder wrote:
..... I'm thinking that varying the number of shims will adjust the
door gap, but it seems like the front door gap would be controlled by
the hinges. Thus adding/removing shims would really only be needed in
the rear to make things line up? Does adding shims affect any other
body alignment areas?
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