> This new skirted 'stat is very interesting. I had worked out the
> design of
> just such a 'stat about 5 years ago. This unit is PRECISELY what I had
> designed and discussed right here on this list!
What's even more interesting is that they began to offer them just slightly
after the design was mentioned here. I guess good ideas travel fast.
> It even used the
> same Robert
> Shaw high flow thermostat. I had based the design on the Shaw
> unit because I
> had one on hand, and it seemed good. Is this a coincidence? Maybe so.
The RS thermostat is the only one on the market today (AFAIK) that has that
nice outer ring to attach the sleeve to.
> I wish I could find my spare thermostat housing to see how well it
> actually blocks off the bypass hole.
Like the original, not very well.
> Now, as for my temperature gauge.... It is "supposed" to read at
> 1/2 way when
> at the right temperature. I have a new temp sender and now the
> gauge reads
> about 3/4 (it points slightly to the right of the K in "Made in
> UK"). Is there
> something I can do to get it to read 1/2 way and also read
> correctly when it
> starts to overheat?
The same problem has been remarked on the Stag list. Best suggestion seems
to be to find a NOS sender with the right part number, instead of the "close
enough" supercession that most (all ?) vendors use now.
Adding a resistor in series with the sender has been suggested, but I don't
believe it will work properly.
There are calibration adjustments on the back of the gauge, it may be
possible to recalibrate using the new sender values. But I don't know of
anyone who has tried this.
> I ought to just re-use the 38 year old original sender.
That would work too.
> The new 'stat only gradually closed. I am not
> sure it makes
> any difference. Maybe the more gradual action is superior....
For one thing, more gradual action means your T-gauge will rise higher
before the cooling system is working at full capacity ... which IMO is not a