> But right now there doesn't seem to be anything wrong
> with my clutch other than the pedal needs to pressed all the way down to
> shift, which I'm guessing is due to a bent release fork pin.
More likely just accumulated wear in various linkages. Check the hole in
the end of the clutch pedal, clevis to the MC, clevis from the slave and the
lever on the side of the transmission. A broken spring inside the MC can
also cause this problem, but I don't know if TR6s are old enough to have
this problem yet. Seems like the original springs are good for 40 years or
so.
> So please help
> a) is it a good idea to install a clutch kit without immediately
> needing to
> do so, or should I just replace what needs replacement?
Personally, I would definitely replace the clutch disc, or have it relined.
(my local independent parts house says they can have a TR clutch relined for
about $40).
Given all the grief TR6s seem to have with replacement clutch parts, I might
be tempted to leave the original pressure plate & TOB in there, if
inspection doesn't uncover any defects.
> b) if I replace the clutch, I'm thinking of the LUK clutch and Koyo throw
> out bearing. Any other recommendations? Does a Borg & Beck
> function just as
> well and as long or is the LUK/Koyo combination worthwhile?
No comment.
> c) Moss advertises their release fork pin as a 'high-strength
> replacement':
> at around $8 to $10 most competitors are at the same price for
> this item. Is anyone's better than another?
I'm pretty sure TRF is selling the same pin.
I would recommend the "cross bolt" modification anyway, which IMO makes the
pin strength irrelevant. You'll probably want to change the shaft too, they
tend to wear at the bushings at the end.
Randall
Check out the new British Cars Forum:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-view_forum.php?forumId=8
|