Since these are such critical parts, my vote is to definitely not use
stainless steel hardware the key suspension parts. S.S. hardware is not strong
Use good Grade 8 or Aircraft Grade (AN) bolts, Nylock nuts or Jetnuts. This
includes the spring pans, trunnions, brake caliper mounting, brake bracket
mounting and brake disk. Buy bolts by the length of their shank, not the
The idea is that no threads should be inside a part, acting as a small
milling machine rounding out the hole. Aircraft Grade bolts are sold by shank
length. Grade 8 are sold by overall length.
Washers can be used to fine-tune bolt fit and will help spread the load. Use
an equal grade washer, to the bolts you use. Use split locking washers
wherever they were originally used.
As a side note, a Nylock nut or Jetnut should not be reused. Once removed,
the locking insert is no longer effective. Throw it away and replace it with
I am not sure about the stainless beading. I'd say just go with whatever was
original. I like the stainless on my TR4 and S.S. is easy to polish up. But, I
guess it all depends on what you like.
San Jose, Calif.
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 19:06:21 -0000
From "Mike" <mike.tr5 at virgin.net>
Subject: TR5 Stainless Steel Suspension Bolts and Wing Beading Strips
Having recently restored a 1971 TR6 Damson with Magnolia interior I am now
getting my teeth into a 1968 TR5.
It will be a full chassis up resoration just like the TR6.
Are stainless steel bolts strong enough to rebuild the suspension in
the large pivot bolt on the trunnion to lower wishbone?
Also should the wing/fender top beading strips be kept stainless or should
they be painted?