Nelson argues that unless the bolt is a press fit, it is too sloppy and does
not share the load of
the fork pin. First the fork pin snaps and then the load is carried by the
bolt. He makes the same
case for the roll pin because it's a spring.
I take it you guys believe it doesn't matter in actual practice? Seems like a
reasonable line of
logic to me. Maybe the bolt is tight enough in actual practice -- it assumes I
drill a nice straight
hole -- free hand. Seems like the reamer would clean up any sloppiness in the
hole I drill.
>>Hmmmm.... Maybe adding a taper pin is not as hard as I thought.
> It's not all that difficult, and Nelson's instructions are excellent.
> But, drilling 1/4" and inserting a 1/4" bolt & nut is still easier, and
> works just fine. Do a temporary installation of the taper pin with the
> shaft still out of the transmission, to hold the fork in exactly the right
> relationship to the shaft, then center punch and drill through both the fork
> and shaft at the same time. Put it as close to the center of the shaft as
> you can, but it's not critical if it's off a bit. Once you've installed it
> all in the transmission, check that the end of the bolt doesn't foul on the
> front of the transmission and you're done.
> With 3 points taking the stress instead of just one, the result is extremely
> strong. Not sure that it's relevant, but I also like having the bolt clamp
> the fork to the shaft, so it can't 'fret' on the pins.