> When I first started the car in this configuration, I got a few
> pulses into the + range of the ammeter, with the ignition light going
> out with each + pulse. Once underway for a quick test spin, the
> ammeter stayed at about 0, with the ignition light glowing very
> slightly.
Drew, I'd say that probably means there's a bad connection somewhere.
Does the red light still come on with the key ? It's important, some
alternators will not work unless the circuit through the light is complete
(to provide a 'tickle' current at startup). On my Chevy, GM added a 10 ohm,
5 watt resistor across the red light, so the alternator would work even if
the bulb burned out.
Did you try checking the output voltage right at the alternator, with the
engine at fast idle ? Also the voltage on terminal #1 (which should be
similar).
Not that it's related, but I took my Stag alternator apart last night and
found it's problem : an intermittent connection inside the housing. The
screw that forms the negative connection from the rectifier assembly to the
housing was only slightly loose, but it was enough to cause a problem.
Since my Stag is externally regulated, the red light came on when the
connection wasn't conducting, but if it had been internal (like yours is),
most likely I wouldn't have gotten a red light. This unit was
professionally rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago ... and most likely would
have tested fine if I had taken it to a shop since the vibration of being
carried around made the bad connection touch down.
Randall
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