On my 1961 TR3, DPO re-did the interior and didn't mark the spot where the
> hood sticks are supposed to go. I haven't removed the new interior to see
> if there are holes tapped into the body panel. Are there?
Actually, behind the panels are a set of three holes, and behnd the holes there
is one "caged" nut and a separate piece of "caged" metal with two holes, all
tapped to 1/4" X 28tpi (NF, or national fine) threading.
Triumph used special counter sink (flat, slotted face with a conical back,)
machine screws with a conical end. The conical end was important for feeding
the screw into the "caged" nut and avoiding the problem of cross-threading.
You can use your finger to press on the material to locate where the screws
should go, but I would suggest that you remove the quarter panels to examine
the nuts. Use a good tap to clean the threading in these nuts. Use a little
kerosine or penitrating oil on the tap as you run it into the nut, and then
wipe the nut with a q-tip or such. Then make sure the screws start and go in
I bought a box of 100 SS 1/4" NF machine screws, 3/4" long. If you cannot find
the original style (try TRF or other TR supply house) in SS, I suggest this
approach. The thing is, without the conical end, getting the screws started is
a bit more difficult.
Positioning of the frame prior to fitting the hood (top) webbing I would
recommend. Initially fit the webbing from the leading top bow to the second,
then third bow. Make sure that these bows are fully in the open position prior
to putting the screws in place. Once you have fitted the webbing to the third
bow, the tricky part is positioning the soft top, and attaching the webbing
ends to the rear capping edge.
I would snap the soft top along the rear capping, and with the top frame raised
and in place and the ends of the webbing laying across the rear cappping, lay
the top over it. Then connect the leading edge of the top to the windshield.
Using two people, one on each side of the car, have them place their hands on
the point on the frame where the frame finally locks. They should push
backwards until the top is taut. The ends of the webbing where they attach to
the rear capping should now be marked for attachment.
A bit tricky, but I have done this with a new top which did not have any of the
snaps installed, and it fit beautifully.
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