> My engine is slowly coming back from the machine shop, and I
> am reminded of
> a replacement seal that Moss claims to replace the original
> "leak-prone"
> seal. My engine shows little sign of wear, and my original
> seal looks good.
> Is this original seal a problem, and does the upgrade (looks
> like a Range
> Rover part for $150) fix it?
Kind of a thorny area. IMO, the original scroll seal works well, if unworn
and properly installed (and there is no pressure buildup in the crankcase).
(It was, in fact, an upgrade at the time from the contact seals of the day.)
At worst, it may let a drop of oil fall occasionally. However, it's very
difficult to judge the wear by looking at it; and people who should know
better than I do have said that the dimensions given in the manual for the
installation tool are incorrect. One solution is to install it touching the
crank, and let it wear into the proper clearance.
The lip type replacement has had it's own share of problems, though. You
can read about some of them at :
http://www.socaltriumphs.org/docs/mainseal.htm
BTW, that article was written several years ago (by a Moss dealer, Ken
Gillanders at BFE) ... it's comments about the kit Moss supplies may no
longer be accurate.
It should also be noted that installing the lip type seal involves permanent
modifications to the crankshaft itself. You cannot go back. The diameter
for the seal area has been revised upwards several times, and there have
been several crankshafts ruined from bad instructions.
The instructions I got with mine had been hand-edited, to read that the seal
area should be ground to 2.520" -.000" +.010". This is more commonly
expressed as 2.525" plus or minus .005".
One of our local club members had hers ground to the printed dimension of
2.500", and it leaked horribly. Much worse than the original seal.
Randall
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