Check out my car on the triumphowners.com/108 web site. In the photos section
in the third row you can find some pictures of my own fun with this type of
repair as well as the solution that fellow lister Rick and I came up with.
I wouldnt necessarily trust the outcome of your vice grips test since the car
will certainly apply more force than you can by hand. Once you have this
problem repaired you can take it for a drive and find out if it is your problem
or not. That will be the only truly accurate test of the source of your clunk.
The problem may be worse than you can tell by your test. And, not to try to
take any business away from TRF(I certainly send quite a bit their way) but I
had a friend make up the brackets for me from a template. I suspect that any
metal shop can also do it easily, probably quicker and cheaper than it would
take to order and receive the parts. I have attached a copy of the template.
My experience is that the drivers side front mount will be just fine and I
suspect that you really dont HAVE to weld it since it doesnt receive the
majority of the stress. If you do choose to weld that side then you will only
be able to get the inside bracket welded in. There isnt enough room for the
outside bracket. There is enough room to weld the passenger side mount but it
wont be fun, especially on your back under the car. For me, Rick was a
lifesaver, having the welding equipment and having a lift in his garage at
home.(Thanks again Rick) Also, depending on the exhaust in your car it maybe
impossible to weld in that space without removing it.
Incidentally, the driver side rear mount receives the next most stress so it
would pay to check that mount very carefully also.
One other thing. After re-reading your post I am unclear as to exactly where
the crack is. It is possible that the crack you reference is on the bottom of
the bracket, on the flat part lowest on the car then where the stud is welded
to the crossmember above could be completely loose. On my car the crack on the
lower portion went through from one side of the bracket to the other and the
stud was completely free up above.
Let me know if you have any questions or if parts or all of this doesnt make
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
Sent: Tue, 2 Jan 2007 12:03 PM
Subject: [TR] cracked TR6 diff mount - how bad does it have to be to clunk?
I've been chasing a mysterious clunk......
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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name
of Differential Mount Reinforcements Template.doc]
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