The previous replies are correct but I envision it a little
differently. First we should be talking about the TR3, TR4 coil
spring, three finger pressure plate, not the diaphragm pressure plate
of the 4A and 6. There should also be a return spring from the lever
to the slave cylinder mount. Unscrewing the push rod from the clevis
will move the throw out bearing up to the clutch fingers so that there
is no freeplay at the throw out bearing or the push rod and slave
cylinder piston. Set the lock nut 1/10" from the clevis and screw in
the push rod as stated before. This pulls the throw out bearing away
from the pressure plate fingers. The return spring keeps it there
until you push on the clutch pedal.
Allen
On Apr 12, 2009, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 09:42:17 -0700
> From: "Paul Willoughby" <paulwillou@socal.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment?
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <FC6CE65FC9AF4F24AEC1F3C075655C3E@paulal73q2sjay>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=response
>
> Should there be play in the clutch lever? When I remove the slave
> rod,
> there seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" back and forth play in the clutch
> lever.
>
>>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment?
>> The pin should go thru the middle hole, although you can get faster
>> clutch
>> action (and more pedal effort) in the top hole.
>>
>> The adjustment procedure is to loosen the nut and unscrew the rod
>> until
>> there is no clearance between the push rod and the operating piston
>> cup.
>> Then adjust the jam nut until a 0.1 gap exists between the clevis
>> fork and
>> the nut. Without moving the jam nut, screw the push rod into the
>> clevis
>> until the nut contacts the clevis face, then tighten the nut.
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