They are relined original shoes, so they are at full thickness. This was
also suggested, especially on the leading edges, so I am going to give this
a try since it has the least potential damage and can be carefully ground
down. I can then test to be sure I am getting full contact and if not, may
take it to a shop to have it shaped to the drum. Thanks for the support.
From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com] On Behalf Of Curt
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 8:26 AM
Cc: Scott Suhring; Triumph Mail List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum
I ran into this when I purchased and installed new shoes, I had to take a
belt sander and take some of the lining off to get my drum back on. How much
lining is on the shoes?
On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 9:41 PM, dorpaul <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
I've heard this tightness will settle in, maybe?
----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" <email@example.com>
To: "Triumph Mail List" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:34 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum
Well, I got the new rear cylinder installed in my '59 TR3, but have
encountered a problem that I am scratching my head over. Before I needed to
replace the right rear brake cylinder, my wheel/brake drum turned freely.
Now since I replaced the cylinder, I can barely get the drum on and once on,
you cannot spin the shaft due to the shoes being so tight on the drum. I
have changed nothing else, measured the piston against the old cylinder, and
although the pistons have a different shape, the measurements seem to be the
same. The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Any thoughts as to what could
be causing this problem? I can try installing the old cylinder after
rebuilding it or I could have the drum shaved down a bit. TIA
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