| To: | "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> |
|---|---|
| Subject: | Re: [TR] TR4 Engine Heater Valve Pipe |
| From: | Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com> |
| Date: | Fri, 25 Oct 2013 22:54:07 +0000 |
| Authentication-results: | cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com smtp.user=tr3driver@ca.rr.com; auth=pass (LOGIN) a=05ChyHeVI94A:10 a=IkcTkHD0fZMA:10 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=KGjhK52YXX0A:10 a=4JemgxDFp74A:10 a=CjxXgO3LAAAA:8 a=APzV-_ZrtAIzRQySdswA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=rC2wZJ5BpNYA:10 a=KOrh491K8B87fFeLgJkoRw==:117 |
| Delivered-to: | mharc@autox.team.net |
| Delivered-to: | triumphs@autox.team.net |
| Sensitivity: | Normal |
---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote: > moss says its same part as the TR3. Must be some mistake. The TR4 uses a cable-operated heater valve, that sits on top of a 45 degree street ell that screws into the head. Totally different setup than the TR3 with the handwheel and extension tube. I'm not positive, but I think that if you remove the head nut & rocker cover, there will be enough room to install the elbow. If that doesn't work, then your only alternatives are to remove the head; or use a plumbing nipple and regular (female-to-female) elbow. Removing just the one nut should be safe; as long as you reinstall and torque to 102 ftlb before trying to start the engine. Randall ** triumphs@autox.team.net ** Archive: http://www.team.net/archive |
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