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Geo, thanks for your help. I THINK I can use a single string to achieve the=
same result as your technique. =20
As far as I can tell the knock off nuts are going to be very close to all ex=
actly the same distance away from the edge of wheel for all tires. The only=
issue would be the question of whether the track is supposed to be symmetri=
cal left and right. I think it is. =20
When I had the string flush on the center of the front nut and 0.25" away fr=
om the center of the rear nut. I made precise measurements this time rather t=
han eyeball measurements and I get 0.176" of toe in. It should be zero to 0=
.062", do it appears that I need to reduce the toe by 0.114 to 0.176"
-Tony
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 15, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 5:51 PM, Anthony Rhodes <spamiam@comcast.net> wrot=
e:=20
>=20
> Are there any things I need to watch out for with this technique? E.G th=
e rear track is 1/2" narrower than the front so I might need to have the str=
ing 1/4" further away from the rear hub than the front?=20
>=20
>=20
> I think you must have the strings parallel to get an accurate measurement.=
Using the knock-offs won't do that.
>=20
> I use four of jack stands about a foot away from the car and measure the d=
istance between the strings carefully to assure it is the same front and bac=
k. Then I measure from the string to the rims.
> Geo
>=20
>=20
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<html><head></head><body bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><div>Geo, thanks for your help.=
I THINK I can use a single string to achieve the same result as your t=
echnique. </div><div><br></div><div>As far as I can tell the knock off=
nuts are going to be very close to all exactly the same distance away from t=
he edge of wheel for all tires. The only issue would be the question o=
f whether the track is supposed to be symmetrical left and right. I think it=
is. </div><div><br></div><div>When I had the string flush on the cent=
er of the front nut and 0.25" away from the center of the rear nut. I made p=
recise measurements this time rather than eyeball measurements and I get 0.1=
76" of toe in. It should be zero to 0.062", do it appears that I need t=
o reduce the toe by 0.114 to 0.176"</div><div><br></div><div>-Tony<br><br>Se=
nt from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Apr 15, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Geo Hahn <<a=
href=3D"mailto:ahwahneetr@gmail.com";>ahwahneetr@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br=
><br></div><div></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 14, 2015 at 5:51 PM, Anthony Rhodes <span d=
ir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:spamiam@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">spam=
iam@comcast.net</a>></span> wrote: <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(20=
4,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><p>
<br>
Are there any things I need to watch out for with this technique? &nbs=
p;E.G the rear track is 1/2" narrower than the front so I might need to have=
the string 1/4" further away from the rear hub than the front? </p></=
blockquote><div><br></div><div>I think you <u>must</u> have the strings=
parallel to get an accurate measurement. Using the knock-offs won't d=
o that.</div><div><br></div><div>I use four of jack stands about a foot=
away from the car and measure the distance between the strings carefully to=
assure it is the same front and back. Then I measure from the string t=
o the rims.</div></div><p>Geo</p><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br></div></div>=
</div></blockquote></body></html>=
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