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Hi Dave,
For the time being it seems to not be leaking but I am just looking for =
possible solutions in case it starts leaking again..
I thought about solder too but in has acid flux in the center of it.=20
I remember back when I was a kid in the 60's my dad used to use lead =
wire to measure the clearances in babbit bearings of the connecting rods =
and main bearings in the antique cars we used to rebuild. He would put a =
small piece of lead wire across the bearing cap, install the bearing, =
rotate the engine a couple of turns, remove the bearing cap and measure =
the thickness of the lead wire with a micrometer.
Plasti-gage is the modern day replacement.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
----- Original Message -----=20
From: David Friedlander=20
To: Dave Connitt=20
Cc: TR3 Triumphs=20
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 8:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Running down oil leaks
Dave;
Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops 'marking' when it's OUT OF OIL! LOL!
Perhaps a few wraps of small diameter solder would do the trick....?
Dave Friedlander
On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt@fuse.net> =
wrote:
Hello everyone,
So I am getting close to plugging all the oil leaks on my TR4A IRS =
but I have a question for the list.
One of the sources of leaking oil was relating to the cast aluminum =
oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two leaks;
1. There was a leak between the large hex "bolt"on top of the oil =
filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to tighten the "bolt"
2. The second leak was between the lock nut holding the screw that =
holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex "bolt".=20
There was no mention of this assembly in my shop manual but I did =
find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil filter attachment =
assembly. The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a sealant between that =
adjustment screw and the hex "bolt". From the exploded view, it looks =
like you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns around the locking =
nut and tighten it up..=20
My question is, what have other people used to replace the "lead =
wire"?
I think what happened is that years ago when I was cleaning the =
aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back together off the =
engine and probably didn't have a way to really tighten either pieces. I =
cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened them and went for =
a quick spin and all seems dry!
Two down and no idea how many more but it is marking it's territory =
less and less.
Regards,
Dave Connitt
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: =
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<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8" http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hi Dave,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>For the time being it seems to not be leaking =
but I am=20
just looking for possible solutions in case it starts leaking=20
again..</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I thought about solder too but in has acid flux =
in the=20
center of it. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I remember back when I was a kid in the 60's my =
dad used=20
to use lead wire to measure the clearances in babbit bearings of the =
connecting=20
rods and main bearings in the antique cars we used to rebuild. He would =
put a=20
small piece of lead wire across the bearing cap, install the bearing, =
rotate the=20
engine a couple of turns, remove the bearing cap and measure the =
thickness of=20
the lead wire with a micrometer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Plasti-gage is the modern day=20
replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Dave Connitt</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"=20
dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Dforzion7@gmail.com href=3D"mailto:forzion7@gmail.com";>David =
Friedlander</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Ddconnitt@fuse.net=20
href=3D"mailto:dconnitt@fuse.net";>Dave Connitt</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Cc:</B> <A =
title=3Dtriumphs@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>TR3 Triumphs</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, April 30, 2015 =
8:48=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [TR] Running down =
oil=20
leaks</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
class=3Dgmail_default>Dave;<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
class=3Dgmail_default>Seems to me a(n) LBC only stops 'marking' when =
it's OUT OF=20
OIL! LOL!<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
class=3Dgmail_default>Perhaps a few wraps of small diameter solder =
would do the=20
trick....?<BR><BR></DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: comic sans ms,sans-serif; COLOR: =
rgb(0,0,153)"=20
class=3Dgmail_default>Dave Friedlander<BR></DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra><BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 8:27 PM, Dave Connitt =
<SPAN=20
dir=3Dltr><<A href=3D"mailto:dconnitt@fuse.net"=20
target=3D_blank>dconnitt@fuse.net</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; =
PADDING-LEFT: 1ex"=20
class=3Dgmail_quote><U></U>
<DIV bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Hello everyone,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>So I am getting close to plugging all the =
oil leaks on=20
my TR4A IRS but I have a question for the list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>One of the sources of leaking oil was =
relating to the=20
cast aluminum oil filter assembly. Specifically there were two=20
leaks;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>1. There was a leak between the large hex =
"bolt"on top=20
of the oil filter casting and the casting. Easy fix, just had to =
tighten the=20
"bolt"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>2. The second leak was between the lock nut =
holding=20
the screw that holds the screw locked into item 1 and the hex =
"bolt".=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>There was no mention of this assembly in my =
shop=20
manual but I did find an exploded view of the cast aluminum oil =
filter=20
attachment assembly. The exploded view shows "lead wire" as a =
sealant=20
between that adjustment screw and the hex "bolt". From the =
exploded=20
view, it looks like you are just supposed to wrap two or three turns =
around=20
the locking nut and tighten it up.. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>My question is, what have other people used =
to replace=20
the "lead wire"?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I think what happened is that years ago when =
I was=20
cleaning the aluminum oil filter attachment assembly, I put it back =
together=20
off the engine and probably didn't have a way to really tighten =
either=20
pieces. I cleaned it all off with carb cleaner after I tightened =
them and=20
went for a quick spin and all seems dry!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Two down and no idea how many more but it is =
marking=20
it's territory less and less.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>Dave Connitt</FONT></DIV></DIV><BR><BR>** <A =
href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</A>=20
**<BR><BR>Donate: <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>Archive: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/archive</A><BR>Forums: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums"=20
=
target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/forums</A><BR>Unsubscribe/Manage: <A =
=
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7@gmail.com=
"=20
=
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7@g=
mail.com</A><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HT=
ML>
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