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Okay - now that I think about it I realize that although I have had the
head off I did not loosen or remove that 45=C2=B0 street ell.
Possibly the correct assembly order is to have it in place before the head
is lowered onto the studs?
I recall on the TR3 I used a lot of sealant on the valve fitting (different
part, same hole) since, like the ell on the TR4, you have to stop at a
particular orientation rather than just tighten all you can.
Geo
On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 4:24 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com> wrote=
:
> Bob,
>
> I have the 45 degree elbow part from one of the big three, just don=E2=80=
=99t
> remember which one. The top of the elbow has a wider body and it won=E2=
=80=99t
> spin around completely. I can=E2=80=99t even take the thing off. I thin=
k I put it
> on when the head was off and thought it was tight. Now with head
> installed, I can=E2=80=99t get it back out or tighten enough
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> *From:* Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr@adelphia.net]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:38 PM
> *To:* James Henningsen <trguy75@gmail.com>; 'triumphs' <
> triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR4 heater valve
>
>
>
> Jim,
>
> The part you need is the elbow. Part # 133061. Plate # AR10 on page 99 in
> the TR4 parts list.
>
> It is about 45% and I have mine pointed slightly to the rear so no proble=
m
> with the valve. This is on my early 63 which should be the same for the 6=
2.
>
> Bob
>
> On 12/29/2015 01:14 PM, James Henningsen wrote:
>
> Still working on my restoration of my 1962 TR4. I have a new heater valv=
e
> inlet pipe installed in the head. I noticed that it is loose in the
> threads and that you cannot completely turn it to tighten as it hits up
> against the first cylinder head stud and nut. Even with the stud nut
> removed, it would still hit against the head stud. It looks like the
> correct part per the factory parts catalog. The question is how to tight=
en
> this pipe? It appears it needs to be a little higher so it doesn=E2=80=
=99t catch
> against the head stud and can spin freely. At this stage I am thinking o=
f
> cutting the top of the pipe off so I can remove and start over. The part=
s
> catalog doesn=E2=80=99t show if it has a straight pipe extension going in=
to head
> first and then the 45 degree elbow pipe screws into that. That is what
> looks like is needed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated befor=
e
> cutting this bugger out.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim Henningsen
>
> Ocala FL
>
> 62 TR4 (one day it will be done)
>
> 73 Jaguar XKE 2+2 (delivery from Santa!)
>
> 75 TR6
>
> 76 Toyota Celica
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Okay - now that I think about it I realize that altho=
ugh I have had the head off I did not loosen or remove that 45=C2=B0 street=
ell.</div><div><br></div><div>Possibly the correct=C2=A0assembly order is =
to have it in place before the head is lowered onto the studs?</div><div><b=
r></div><div>I recall on the TR3 I used a lot of sealant on the valve fitti=
ng (different part, same hole) since, like the ell on the TR4, you have to =
stop at a particular orientation rather than just tighten all you can.</div=
><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div cla=
ss=3D"gmail_quote">On Tue, Dec 29, 2015 at 4:24 PM, James Henningsen <span =
dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:trguy75@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">trgu=
y75@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" st=
yle=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div =
lang=3D"EN-US" vlink=3D"#954F72" link=3D"#0563C1" bgcolor=3D"white"><div><p=
class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">Bob,<u></u><u></u=
></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)">I h=
ave the 45 degree elbow part from one of the big three, just don=E2=80=99t =
remember which one.=C2=A0 The top of the elbow has a wider body and it won=
=E2=80=99t spin around completely.=C2=A0 I can=E2=80=99t even take the thin=
g off.=C2=A0 I think I put it on when the head was off and thought it was t=
ight.=C2=A0 Now with head installed, I can=E2=80=99t get it back out or tig=
hten enough<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"c=
olor:rgb(31,73,125)">Jim<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><sp=
an style=3D"color:rgb(31,73,125)"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><div><div =
style=3D"border-width:1pt medium medium;border-style:solid none none;border=
-color:rgb(225,225,225) currentColor currentColor;padding:3pt 0in 0in"><p c=
lass=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"color:windowtext">From:</span></b><spa=
n style=3D"color:windowtext"> Bob Labuz [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:yellowtr@=
adelphia.net" target=3D"_blank">yellowtr@adelphia.net</a>] <br><b>Sent:</b>=
Tuesday, December 29, 2015 1:38 PM<br><b>To:</b> James Henningsen <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:trguy75@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">trguy75@gmail.com</a>>=
;; 'triumphs' <<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">triumphs@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4=
heater valve<u></u><u></u></span></p></div></div><div><div class=3D"h5"><p=
class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><div><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Ji=
m,<br><br>The part you need is the elbow. Part # 133061. Plate # AR10 on pa=
ge 99 in the TR4 parts list.<br><br>It is about 45% and I have mine pointed=
slightly to the rear so no problem with the valve. This is on my early 63 =
which should be the same for the 62.<br><br>Bob<br><br>On 12/29/2015 01:14 =
PM, James Henningsen wrote:<span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><u></u><u></u></s=
pan></p></div><blockquote style=3D"margin-top:5pt;margin-bottom:5pt"><p cla=
ss=3D"MsoNormal">Still working on my restoration of my 1962 TR4.=C2=A0 I ha=
ve a new heater valve inlet pipe installed in the head.=C2=A0 I noticed tha=
t it is loose in the threads and that you cannot completely turn it to tigh=
ten as it hits up against the first cylinder head stud and nut.=C2=A0 Even =
with the stud nut removed, it would still hit against the head stud.=C2=A0 =
It looks like the correct part per the factory parts catalog.=C2=A0 The que=
stion is how to tighten this pipe?=C2=A0 It appears it needs to be a little=
higher so it doesn=E2=80=99t catch against the head stud and can spin free=
ly.=C2=A0 At this stage I am thinking of cutting the top of the pipe off so=
I can remove and start over.=C2=A0 The parts catalog doesn=E2=80=99t show =
if it has a straight pipe extension going into head first and then the 45 d=
egree elbow pipe screws into that.=C2=A0 That is what looks like is needed.=
=C2=A0 Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated before cutting this bug=
ger out.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Cheers,<u></u><u></u></p><=
p class=3D"MsoNormal">Jim Henningsen<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal=
">Ocala FL<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">62 TR4 (one day it will =
be done)<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">73 Jaguar XKE 2+2 (deliver=
y from Santa!)<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">75 TR6<u></u><u></u>=
</p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">76 Toyota Celica<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal">=C2=A0=C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:12pt"><u></u>=
=C2=A0<u></u></span></p></blockquote><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"=
font-family:"Times New Roman",serif;font-size:12pt"><u></u>=C2=A0=
<u></u></span></p></div></div></div></div><br><br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> *=
*<br>
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eferrer">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
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