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[TR] Re torque TR4A head, hot or cold ?

Subject: [TR] Re torque TR4A head, hot or cold ?
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2018 07:42:11 -0700
References: <1733282491.2346656.1533052308797.JavaMail.zimbra@centurylink.net> <70315232-4ade-28df-de81-29e26f09999e@tonydrews.com> <fa89c4e6-10ed-e08b-bbeb-3c2339e7dc59@porterscustom.com> <4BC092BEA82C41E7AFD769409A14C09D@LAPTOPM3GPCDH8>
Just by way of comment - when I do a re-torque I use a paint pen on the
stud and the nut so when I am done I can see how much each nut moved.  No
idea what to do with that info, just find it interesting to know.

Geo

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 11:46 PM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > this makes no sense. To get it hot it has to run, but one
> > wouldn't run it without it being torqued down especially with
> > wet liners.
>
> Which is why they call it RE-torque.  Initial torque done cold, retorque
> done hot.
>
> The TR3A owner's manual actually specifies retorque hot, although that
> particular item was left out of the TR4-4A manuals.  Instead, you were
> supposed to return to the dealer for the initial service.
>
> That said, I've never been able to tell that it made any difference. The
> steel studs expand at almost exactly the same rate as the cast iron head,
> so
> the only difference would be the relatively thin head gasket.  I suspect
> the
> whole hot/cold thing has more to do with convenience (not having to wait
> for
> the engine to cool when brought to the dealer for initial service) than
> anything.
>
> For cast iron heads, anyway.  Alloy heads expand much faster than the steel
> studs, which is why it's important they be retorqued cold.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
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