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[TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?

Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 22:53:06 +0000
References: <BL0PR1501MB198611DA41C9A0F8C2F068ADB6310@BL0PR1501MB1986.namprd15.prod.outlook.com> <20180821141615.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.ccb6bae867.mailapi@email09.godaddy.com>
Or the control box?  Since that is the only thing to have changed?..

From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:16 PM
To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at 
autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?

I just saw something I missed:  if the ignition light is on with the ignition 
off, you have wired something wrong.  With the ignition off, the live wire is 
the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should 
be dead.  Check your wiring and the switch itself.

Andew

--------- Original Message ---------
Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm


Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?

1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild.  It is probably your voltage 
regulator, but could be the generator.
[DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box?
https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__scontent.fyto1-2D1.fna.fbcdn.net_v_t31.0-2D8_22289710-5F10154791827276960-5F7862641928967427382-5Fo.jpg-3F-5Fnc-5Ffx-3Dfyto1-2D1-26-5Fnc-5Fcat-3D0-26oh-3D037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f-26oe-3D5C00F9F4&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=5Z47mQt16DkC7BEW6yxi_ZGC3enQcV4eld15EtHIrN0&e=>

But with the ignition switch set to off????  I would expect no power to be 
flowing in the system?!?!?!?

2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function 
isn't set up (red light on).  Fix the charging system, then address the 
ammeter.  If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
[DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job.    The 
question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only slight, 
not a large value

3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and 
the slave:  worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
[DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?.

4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold 
engine.
[DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg.  Sooo good??? ?

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan

--------- Original Message ---------
Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this 
is going to last a while ).  Need to tackle a few more things:


  *   Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is 
on all the time????
  *   I do need to switch over the amp gauge.  While running, it is slightly 
-ve ( which means slightly +ve ).  This a good sign? Or should there be more 
charging?
  *   While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but 
gears grinds touching to go into gear.  I am assuming the slave is not 
responding?  There is fluif in the can ?  ( still love that word )
  *   The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi.  Does 
this collective like that?

David
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