The aluminum radiator I installed in my TR8 many years ago is a huge, huge
blessing !!
Mike - Calgary
> On Aug 22, 2018, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net)
> 2. List mail (Mark J Bradakis)
> 3. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net)
> 4. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (auprichard at uprichard.net)
> 5. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (David Templeton)
> 6. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (David Templeton)
> 7. clearer second run... (David Templeton)
> 8. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
> 9. Aluminum radiator (Peter Arakelian)
> 10. Re: clearer second run... (Wbeech at flash.net)
> 11. Re: [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh? (Randall)
> 12. Re: Aluminum radiator (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
> 13. Re: Aluminum radiator (Hoyt Duff)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 11:14:00 -0700
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>, "'Triumphs List'"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <20180821111400.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.cb09a01a25.mailapi at
> email09.godaddy.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage
> regulator, but could be the generator.
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
> isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
> ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
> the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
> engine.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> --------- Original Message --------- Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really,
> this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
> Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on
> all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it
> is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should
> there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch,
> the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming
> the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that
> word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi.
> Does this collective like that?
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard
> at uprichard.net
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 15:50:19 -0600
> From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] List mail
> Message-ID: <82f5ba8b-8bb1-f794-cdca-5dc1e231a3a7 at bradakis.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I may be making progress on various issues with Team.Net email. Or I may
> be making matters worse.? Hopefully things are getting better, and mail
> to the lists might get sped up a bit.
>
> mjb.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:16:15 -0700
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>, "'Triumphs List'"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <20180821141615.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.ccb6bae867.mailapi at
> email09.godaddy.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition
> off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is
> the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should
> be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself.
>
> Andew
>
> --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red
> light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs
> List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at
> autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your
> voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box…
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be
> flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
> isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
> ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The
> question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only
> slight, not a large value
>
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
> the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave
> rebuild….
>
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
> engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really,
> this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
> Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on
> all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it
> is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should
> there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch,
> the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming
> the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that
> word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi.
> Does this collective like that?
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20180821/f3131ecc/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 14:13:03 -0700
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <20180821141303.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.756ae5fc54.mailapi at
> email09.godaddy.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> If the red light is on, you are not charging the system. If you have a
> modern alternator, I agree no need for the control box, but you still need to
> connect wires. I can send a pic when I get home at the end of the week. I
> don't think you can conclude anything from the ammeter until the system is
> charging. It is probably correcto, a small draw and the battery not
> charging. So wait until you fix the red light problem.
>
> Do you have the gearbox cover on? If not, does the cross-shaft move when you
> put you foot on the clutch? If the cover is on, have someone look
> underneath. There is a difference between crunching going into gear, but you
> still have a clutch, and being unable to find a gear with the engine running.
> If you start the car in gear and your foot is on the clutch, does it lurch?
>
> 60 psi at warm idle is great, maybe even a little high. Watch you don't go
> too high when driving.
>
>
> --------- Original Message --------- Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red
> light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, "'Triumphs
> List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at
> autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your
> voltage regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box…
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be
> flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
> isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
> ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight's job. The
> question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only
> slight, not a large value
>
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
> the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave
> rebuild….
>
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
> engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> Jackson, Michigan
>
>
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> From: "David Templeton" <davidt at opentext.com>
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> To: "'Triumphs List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really,
> this is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
> Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is on
> all the time???? I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it
> is slightly -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should
> there be more charging? While the engine was running, push in the clutch,
> the pedal moves, but gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming
> the slave is not responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that
> word ) The oil pressure running on this 'break-in' oil is a solid 60psi.
> Does this collective like that?
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20180821/c764213e/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 20:32:53 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, 'Triumphs
> List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <BL0PR1501MB198611DA41C9A0F8C2F068ADB6310 at
> BL0PR1501MB1986.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at
> autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage
> regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box?
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be
> flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
> isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
> ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The
> question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only
> slight, not a large value
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
> the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?.
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
> engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this
> is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
>
> * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is
> on all the time????
> * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly
> -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more
> charging?
> * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but
> gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not
> responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word )
> * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does
> this collective like that?
>
> David
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20180821/083ff13f/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 22:53:06 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: "auprichard at uprichard.net" <auprichard at uprichard.net>, 'Triumphs
> List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <SN6PR1501MB199722F46BAABF46922B410CB6310 at
> SN6PR1501MB1997.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?..
>
> From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:16 PM
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>; 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at
> autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> I just saw something I missed: if the ignition light is on with the ignition
> off, you have wired something wrong. With the ignition off, the live wire is
> the brown-blue which runs to the ignition switch - all the white wires should
> be dead. Check your wiring and the switch itself.
>
> Andew
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
> Date: 8/21/18 1:32 pm
>
>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 2:14 PM
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - RE: [TR] red light, huh?
>
> 1. Red light on - common problem with a rebuild. It is probably your voltage
> regulator, but could be the generator.
> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box?
> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_10154791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat=0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__scontent.fyto1-2D1.fna.fbcdn.net_v_t31.0-2D8_22289710-5F10154791827276960-5F7862641928967427382-5Fo.jpg-3F-5Fnc-5Ffx-3Dfyto1-2D1-26-5Fnc-5Fcat-3D0-26oh-3D037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f-26oe-3D5C00F9F4&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=5Z47mQt16DkC7BEW6yxi_ZGC3enQcV4eld15EtHIrN0&e=>
>
> But with the ignition switch set to off???? I would expect no power to be
> flowing in the system?!?!?!?
>
> 2. Your amp gauge should be +ve when running, but then your charging function
> isn't set up (red light on). Fix the charging system, then address the
> ammeter. If it is still -ve, the wires are probably reversed.
> [DT] yeap reversed, I do need to do that, looks like tonight?s job. The
> question was more about the scale of the needle deviation, it was only
> slight, not a large value
>
> 3. Best case scenario for the grinding clutch is adjustment at the pedal and
> the slave: worse case - you don't have a clutch and need to pull the gearbox
> [DT] hmmm, ok, going to assume adjustment and maybe master/slave rebuild?.
>
> 4. My rule of thumb is 60psi at 3000 rpm when warm, so higher with a cold
> engine.
> [DT] ok she is idling and was almost 180deg. Sooo good??? ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
>
> --------- Original Message ---------
> Subject: [TR] red light, huh?
> Date: 8/20/18 8:59 pm
> Ok now the euphoria of the engine starting has passed ( well not really, this
> is going to last a while ). Need to tackle a few more things:
>
>
> * Hook up the battery and while the ignition is off the red dash light is
> on all the time????
> * I do need to switch over the amp gauge. While running, it is slightly
> -ve ( which means slightly +ve ). This a good sign? Or should there be more
> charging?
> * While the engine was running, push in the clutch, the pedal moves, but
> gears grinds touching to go into gear. I am assuming the slave is not
> responding? There is fluif in the can ? ( still love that word )
> * The oil pressure running on this ?break-in? oil is a solid 60psi. Does
> this collective like that?
>
> David
> ard at
> uprichard.net<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_auprichard-40uprichard.net&d=DwMFaQ&c=ZgVRmm3mf2P1-XDAyDsu4A&r=346MKQty4J9yevdUa9Fj_cT53y_74TwSRM-I7J2SFzs&m=Rua756CQynMvOtKWss-ei8GerYpgfKheO5Y3yZFNm6E&s=2tGMwiY4kg0FQAXNFECq6rLAD1qZM0cmQm_UcxDnUTE&e=>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 02:33:14 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: 'Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] clearer second run...
> Message-ID:
> <BL0PR1501MB19860D497A09A109917FE6EDB6300 at
> BL0PR1501MB1986.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>
> https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0
>
>
> David
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:36:01 +0000
> From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>, 'Triumphs List'
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID:
> <CY4PR1601MB1255DED063C76122890804ACB9300 at
> CY4PR1601MB1255.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>
> David-
>
>
> I missed earlier discussion on what you used for an alternator, but I assume
> you changed out the control box at the time you put in the alternator. If
> the alternator is a 3 wire Nippon Denso style as it looks like it might be in
> your picture, check the wiring to poles 1&2 on your alternator. For Pole 2,
> are you using switched power, or is the power on all the time? If its on
> full time, it might be why the charge light is on as well.
>
> Randy
> ________________________________
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
> Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2018 5:53 PM
> To: auprichard at uprichard.net; 'Triumphs List'
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
>
>
> Or the control box? Since that is the only thing to have changed?..
>
>
>
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>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 12:11:53 +0000
> From: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Aluminum radiator
> Message-ID:
> <MWHPR18MB15334E74FC3C581F7164CFCFC1300 at
> MWHPR18MB1533.namprd18.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a
> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers,
> and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but
> one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve.
> Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have
> not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and
> aluminum eating away when in contact.
> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:47:45 -0500
> From: "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> Cc: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] clearer second run...
> Message-ID: <4DB7F8C0-8961-42A8-A9DB-DDBA24E9C9D8 at flash.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Looking good, smooth.
> Bill
>
> Sent from my Handspring Treo
>
> On Aug 21, 2018, at 9:33 PM, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
>
>
> https://youtu.be/lI5kng_fMG0
>
>
> David
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at
> flash.net
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 10:04:11 -0400
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: "'David Templeton'" <davidt at opentext.com>, "'Triumphs List'"
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - RE: red light, huh?
> Message-ID: <E45B4A8D896F48BDB7E82AF442067B7B at LAPTOPM3GPCDH8>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>> [DT] ok, I have an alternator with a dummy control box.
>>
>> https://scontent.fyto1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/22289710_1015
>> 4791827276960_7862641928967427382_o.jpg?_nc_fx=fyto1-1&_nc_cat
>> =0&oh=037cf08c7b1bd39368e193977202444f&oe=5C00F9F4
>
> Ok, so where is the wire to the light attached? With your changes to the
> control box, the 'D' terminal is now hot all the time, which will keep the
> light on if the light is still connected to 'D' (as original).
>
> There should be a separate output from the alternator that feeds the light
> and only the light.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 08:23:56 -0700
> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiator
> Message-ID: <bb753181-e741-4ed2-ae60-24cf18441a4a at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> On 8/22/18 5:11 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
>> Thanks to all for the input.? I have decided to go big bucks and get a
>> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ.? Spoke directly with several
>> makers, and was most satisfied with Ron's responses.? The Wizard was
>> very close, but one of the things I did not like about theirs was the
>> brass drain valve.? Brass and aluminum do not go together.? Even
>> though they told me they have not seen any problems, you can look up
>> tables and articles about brass and aluminum eating away when in contact.
>> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
> Instead of a drain valve, I prefer to use a threaded plug that has a
> sacrificial zinc anode attached.
>
> TeriAnn
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2018 11:43:38 -0400
> From: Hoyt Duff <hoytduff at gmail.com>
> To: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum radiator
> Message-ID:
> <CAMp=J_pjfqZ9EpMpF4y=fjD-KC9FADrAwCs18kqy1Snt0VjOzQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> You just use anti-sieze on the threads, which ameliorates the corrosion
> problem.
>
> On 8/22/18, Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com> wrote:
>> Thanks to all for the input. I have decided to go big bucks and get a
>> radiator from Ron Davis Racing in AZ. Spoke directly with several makers,
>> and was most satisfied with Ron's responses. The Wizard was very close, but
>> one of the things I did not like about theirs was the brass drain valve.
>> Brass and aluminum do not go together. Even though they told me they have
>> not seen any problems, you can look up tables and articles about brass and
>> aluminum eating away when in contact.
>> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
>>
>
>
> --
> --
> Hoyt
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 213
> *****************************************
|
